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Climb the 5.8 wide crack to a stance behind the pedastel. Move up and left into the wide left leaning crack. A 4 and 4 1/2 camolot will protect the moves out of it. Exit the crack and move up and right to a bolt. Go straight up on sparse gear(tcus) and one more bolt to a run out 5.8 section. Step through this to reach a double bolt anchor. Either top out on the buttress or rap off on 2 ropes.
Starts right of Space Monkey.
Mixed; gear and two bolts. Double-bolt anchor at the top.
By wes calkins
Dec 17, 2012
Nice Job cleaning this one up. Really hard wide crack crux. Followed by a featured face. My rack for this route consists of full set of c3's, BD.3,BD.4,BD.5,BD2, 2 BD#3,BD4, and BD5. One thing I have been doing is firing the crux and belaying to avoid the somewhat dirty topout then traversing on a ledge to the left to get to the anchor above space monkey.
Dec 21, 2015
This is a excellent and stout fist crack capped by a nice but somewhat dirty face. Pro on the upper face is excellent and comes about every body length. For the crack I placed two #3 and #4 C4s, a #5 C4 and on the face above two of each #1 & #2 TCUs, and a single #1 C4. There's a two bolt anchor at the top of this route and a single 70m will get you down.