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Look for a tan slot about 20' wide to the left of the massive chimney separating the L. and R. side of the N. face of the rock (up a few hundred feet around to the l. from Xenomorph
). Climb the R. side of the slot, awkward and sustained 5.7, with a step right out of the upper section of the slot, and a trickier than it looks off-fingers crack leading up to a pedestal. Original belay location was apparently here, but there didn't appear to be much in the way of gear for a belay to us. Angle left from the pedestal to a big ledge, a little easier but lichenous and no gear for 15' above the pedestal (so your last solid piece is the last one you placed in the off-fingers section). P1's length is 150-160'.
P2 is short and climbs up to the next big ledge. There are various ways to go. We stepped left ~10' and climbed a 20' dihedral that was in keeping with the rest of the route in difficulty and well protected but a little dirty.
P3 (the best pitch). Go right as far as possible on the big ledge rounding a corner until it runs out. Exposure increases dramatically. For a dramatic and exciting belay it may be possible to set the P3 belay on a triangular and exposed stance around the corner before the steep section on P3 - we belayed to the left and then moved the belay over to just before the corner before commencing P3. Even though the rope takes a big L low on the pitch this way the rope drag was not bad. Joy climbing on gneiss chickenheads and rails for almost a full 60m rope length to the summit, trending slightly left, passing 2 old pitons on the earlier part of the pitch. Absolutely great pitch.
Start is not hard to locate but don't be discouraged by the appearance of the first pitch from the ground. The climbing is more fun (and harder) than it looks. 5.7 grade is 5.7 the way Kor's Flake
on Sundance at Lumpy is 5.7. The 3rd pitch is fantastic with the traverse from sheltered to exposed at the start of P3 reminiscent of Ruper
at the Eldorado Canyon State Park but even more so. We descended on the left (N). One tricky catwalk spot where you can either make a short insecure step over loose mossy terrain, or angle down an easy slab for ~30' and then climb back up on solid terrain for approximately 15' to the same spot. Following this the descent is back down a tree-filled gully pointing NW and is quite easy.
Ok on the harder sections but can be difficult to place and deceptive (don't assume you will get pro, use it when you can get it). Considerable amounts of questionable rock and lichen, especially on the first pitch - test holds is a must. Don't need large gear - up to #3 Camalot is fine. No fixed anchors.
By John Korfmacher
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jul 19, 2010
Classic Layton Kor creation with lots of exposure, so-so pro, wild moves, and lichen. An enjoyable route if you're comfortable with the occasional runout. It is remarkably steep for a 5.7 but large knobs and incuts abound which make for a more moderate experience.
The slabby bit near the end of P1 can be protected with two equalized small wires in a crack near the bottom of the slab, just left of where one stands on the pedestal. It isn't great but it would hold a short fall.
P2 crux as described above is kind of a wild bearhug on a huge jug. Leaders under 5'8" might have trouble reaching it.
The P3 crux is full value for 5.7 with a somewhat wild move left out of a slot onto some lichenous funkiness. It's worth the trip.
From: Pinewood Springs
Sep 5, 2012
Yeah, what a ride it was on the second pitch, long runouts, wild undercling traverse (where you don't want to stop and place pro) with a fixed pin above, after a step back left, one diffcult move after that and only then does it back off to 5.7.
We used a 70, everything was 2 pitches. I'd say the lower section of P2 (or book P3) was at least 5.8.