Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Northeast Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Be Here Now T 
David's Climb T 
Heart Route T 
Koran T 
Looks Good T 
Mecca T 
Skin Flint T 
Tricky Groove T 
Unsorted Routes:


YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Rusty Bailey?
Page Views: 882
Submitted By: Greg DeMatteo on May 25, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Looking up Koran from the base

  • Peregrine falcon closures from February through July. MORE INFO >>>
  • Falcon Closures from February 2 until mid-July. MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Essentially a protectable face climb with 3 drilled pins on the upper section. Begin up the obvious thin crack to the right of Mecca. Thin protection in the crack leads to great face climbing up the dark, steep terrain above. Highly recommended and a full value climb.


    Begin to the right of Mecca. Descend Shark Fin Gully or downclimb Heart Route (5.6) if you are so inclined.


    Nuts and TCU's for lower section, quickdraws for up higher. Nuts and TCU's for anchor.

    Photos of Koran Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Flynn part way through the thin crack
    Flynn part way through the thin crack
    Rock Climbing Photo: Studying the Koran
    Studying the Koran
    Rock Climbing Photo: At the base of Koran with Austin Kessler belaying ...
    At the base of Koran with Austin Kessler belaying ...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Fun and exciting face moves
    Fun and exciting face moves
    Rock Climbing Photo: up through the pins
    up through the pins

    Comments on Koran Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Flynn Mcfarland
    From: Prescott, AZ
    Nov 9, 2015
    rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

    I freaking love this climb! Really exciting face moves between drilled/glued pins with moderate run out! The thin crack start takes small cams some pieces I doubled up together for the sake of it.

    Biggest cam you need is a BD#2 or a fat-ass nut/hex for a flared pod. Bring lots of aliens, TCU, or X4's what ever you got. The trick is to climb this route like a face and only use the crack hear and there.

    I recommend building a small two piece anchor for the belayer and/or if the leader falls at the worst time...

    The Definitive
    Climbing Resource

    Inspiration & Motivation
    to Fuel Your Run

    Next Generation Mountain
    Bike Trail Maps

    Backcountry, Sidecountry
    & Secret Stashes

    Better Data. Better Tools.
    Better Hikes!