|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 80'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]|
|Submitted By:||Greg DeMatteo on May 25, 2007|
|Comments on Koran||Add Comment|
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By Flynn Mcfarland
From: Prescott, AZ
Nov 9, 2015
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
I freaking love this climb! Really exciting face moves between drilled/glued pins with moderate run out! The thin crack start takes small cams some pieces I doubled up together for the sake of it.
Biggest cam you need is a BD#2 or a fat-ass nut/hex for a flared pod. Bring lots of aliens, TCU, or X4's what ever you got. The trick is to climb this route like a face and only use the crack hear and there.
I recommend building a small two piece anchor for the belayer and/or if the leader falls at the worst time...