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|Type: ||Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches, Grade III|
|FA: ||Laton Kor and Butch Van Tongeren. 1962|
|Submitted By: ||paco on Jul 1, 2002|
Kor-Van Tongeren was on my "obscure climbs" tick list for some time and finally did it today. Neat-o. I really [couldn't] recommend this route to anyone except for the rare and elusive [Hallett] junky. Although it does have its moments.
P 1- Find a right-leaning slot 50m up and and ways to the right of the Northcutt-Carter rock scar. Work your way up to some old slings [visible] from the ground.
P2 - Choose the wide crack to the right or the roof straight above. We took the roof and found it quite enjoyable. Solid 5.8. Then continue up to a ledge and go right to the base of a groove/shallow left-facing corner.
P3 and 4 - You can link these pitches in 65m. This would be great climbing except that nearly every hold is loose. 5.8. The 5.9+ R variation to the left of these pitches looked like perfect rock and excellent but runout climbing.
P4 and 5 - Finesse your way up the chimney for two pitches bringing you to a steep headwall ending the chimney system.
P6 - Take the not so pretty crack/groove on the right in the back of the chimney and continue up 30 more feet ending on top of a small spire of sorts. 5.9.
Now, I [don't] know if Gillett or Rossitter have done this route, but the topos are a bit off here. From the belay after the chimney, one must rap 30 feet to a ledge and then start p.7 (or p.8 on the topo).
P7 - My favorite pitch on the climb. Head up easy rock to the obvious thin crack splitting a headwall. Clip a fixed nut and dare to yard on a loose chockstone to enter easier terrain. 5.9. Cool finger crack!
This climb is probably not as bad as I make it sound. It may be a better climb overall if the 5.9 R variation was taken on pitches 3 and 4.
P.S. - I found [Gillett's] topo to be more accurate than [Rossiter's].
Bring one to two of each cam up to #3 Camalot, and one set of nuts. We brought a #4 Camalot and RPs but did not use them.