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The Maiden
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Belladonna T 
Cunning Stunt T 
Direct North Face T 
Dream Street Rose T 
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Eye Of the Storm T 
Gates of Galas T,TR 
Hasta La Hueco T,S 
Kor-Dalke Route T 
North Face T 
South Crack T 
South Face T 
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Kor-Dalke Route 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a R

   
Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 350', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Layton Kor and Larry Dalke, 1966. FFA: Greg Miller and David Light, 2009.
Page Views: 2,466
Submitted By: dlight on May 23, 2009

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BETA PHOTO: Light on pitch 2, photo by Erik Johnson.
Climbing areas reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Start uphill from the South Face route beneath a cave just right of a juniper.

P1 5.8+ S: Step right through a bulge and climb up to the cave belay.

P2 5.10 R: Move left out of the cave, follow an obvious traverse which leads to the Crow's Nest.

P3 5.8 S: (45') Move up and right to an airy perch.

P4 5.12a R: Step down right, traverse right, move up and right through the crux bulge to a belay on the slab above.

P5 5.8 R: Climb left up the black ramp to the top.

This route was previously recorded as High South 5.7 A2+. Unfortunately this significant route has been largely omitted or inaccurately described by recent guidebooks.

A variation finish was added by Miller-Light:
P5 variation 5.9 R: Move right and up to join the East Ridge.


Protection 

One full set: RPs to #4 Camalot, FFA used double ropes for security (lots of sideways climbing and some poor rock).



Photos of Kor-Dalke Route Slideshow Add Photo
Greg Miller FFA pitch 4, photo by Erik Johnson.
BETA PHOTO: Greg Miller FFA pitch 4, photo by Erik Johnson.
Miller starting out the crux pitch.
Miller starting out the crux pitch.
Pitch 2.
Pitch 2.
South Face of the Maiden and Devil's Thumb.
South Face of the Maiden and Devil's Thumb.
Light high on the black ramp, photo by Miller.
BETA PHOTO: Light high on the black ramp, photo by Miller.
The awesome Maiden from the south.
The awesome Maiden from the south.
Miller working out pitch 4, photo by David Light.
Miller working out pitch 4, photo by David Light.
Crow's Nest and the southwest edge of the Maiden.
Crow's Nest and the southwest edge of the Maiden.
Pitch 2.
Pitch 2.
Kor-Dalke Route.
BETA PHOTO: Kor-Dalke Route.
G. Miller.
G. Miller.
Comments on Kor-Dalke Route Add Comment
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By Jason Haas
From: Broomfield, CO
May 24, 2009

Nice work guys and congrats! I apologize for mis-describing this route in the new guidebook. I looked through literally EVERY guidebook that contained the Flatirons and this route has never been described in the fashion you guys did it. With that said, to my own fault, seeing as it was an aid line, I did not devote as much attention to it as the already existing free lines. Good work and thank you for correcting this long-standing error.

By bhoran
From: Boulder, CO
May 26, 2009

Good work Greg and David, a classic aid climbing odyssey freed as a committing, difficult trad line, which more or less zig-zags, following a line of least resistance up the sheer, exposed south face of the Maiden, I heard that a few of the old Kor anchors deteriorated when tugged upon. Way to keep the spirit alive.