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An OK route but it suffers the same problem as Wishbone - a lack of consistency.
Start as for Wishbone but stay right and pull through the roof (crux) to a wide crack. Easier climbing leads to the top.
Same as Wishbone
The paranoid can use a #4 camalot to sew up the crux.
|By Mike Howard|
Oct 19, 2007
Brownell Bergen was also on the first ascent in 1964. Just for the record.
From: The land of steady habits
Aug 25, 2008
used the #5 camalot, was happy to have it. large hexes could have been OK too, especially if you dump the #4 at the crux.
|By christopher adams|
May 31, 2009
The chockstone that helped everyone pull the crux is gone. Probably 5.9+ now.
Oct 25, 2010
Before the roof seemed like the hardest part for me. I ended up slinging a chockstone before moving right.
The roof itself seemed so well protected. Phew... Scary looking up the crack though and seeing all those loose looking rocks in the crack above the roof.
Sep 24, 2012
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a
agree on the 9+
kinda strenuous through the roof and above.
Sep 16, 2013
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI HVS 4c
If you look around this is pretty well protected with C4 #3 and smaller (with one maybe 20 foot runout on easy terrain below the ledge). Really found myself wanting more #2's than bigger gear. I think 5.9 is about right, but it is easier than other CT 9's IMO (thinking YMC, Cat Crack), maybe due to the solid cam at the crux.