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Big Horn Wall
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On the Prowl (?) S 
Smoke Signals S 
Tribal War S 

Kootenai Cruiser 

YDS: 5.13d French: 8b Ewbanks: 31 UIAA: X ZA: 32 British: E8 7a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13d French: 8b Ewbanks: 31 UIAA: X ZA: 32 British: E8 7a [details]
FA: Chris Grijavla
Page Views: 1,717
Submitted By: LeeAB on Sep 8, 2006

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Moving up into the crux. Photo by Matt Moore

Description 

This is the second route from the right and starts off the high point of the slab at the base of the wall and heads up and left, Custer's Last Stand heads up and right.

Make long moves right from the start on holds that are somehow not as good as on the other routes. An awkward sequence leads up into the bulge and a kneebar to get over to a good pocket. Take a deep breath and move up on some smaller holds, the left of which will eat your finger tips for lunch. A big move to a small but positive hold, choose which terrible hold you want to use as an intermediate and jump for all your worth for the positive holds above. 5.12 climbing on lower quality stone leads to the anchor.

You could call the whole thing from the start to the dyno the crux, there is no rest and it just seems to get harder as you go.


Protection 

Bolts to a glue in anchor that needs to be threaded.



Photos of Kootenai Cruiser Slideshow Add Photo
Sticking...barely, the throw. Everything stayed on when I did it from a hang and everything nearly came off on link. Photo by Matt Moore
Sticking...barely, the throw. Everything stayed on...
Cool and physical undercling sequence. Photo by Matt Moore
Cool and physical undercling sequence. Photo by Ma...
Working through the upper headwall on easier climbing. Photo by Matt Moore
Working through the upper headwall on easier climb...
Setting up for the climactic dyno at the end of the hard climbing. Photo by Matt Moore
Setting up for the climactic dyno at the end of th...
Procrastinating at the start of the route. Photo by Matt Moore
Procrastinating at the start of the route. Photo b...
The physical 4th clip which is mandatory since you skip the 5th. Photo by Matt Moore
The physical 4th clip which is mandatory since you...
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