Climbing on the Navajo Nation is ILLEGAL. MORE INFO >>>
While some have made clandestine ascents in the area without incident, others climbing on the Navajo Nation have had their gear confiscated or have been fined. It is unclear what the specific consequences would be if confronted by Navajo authorities. It is unclear if one can get permission to climb here from someone with the appropriate authority to legitimize climbing here. Some climbers have talked to locals, especially the grazing-permit holders, and respectfully asked permission, and have had really positive experiences, climbing as well as a cultural experience, in some areas on the Navajo Nation.
This area is included for historical purposes mainly, and as a location to put those amazing photos everyone has.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
BETA PHOTO: the spire, we saw a few bolts from the ground, all...
Description
A small, hunched spire (looks a bit like it's going to fall over) near downtown Farmington.
This spire is not in the Navajo Nation, but is on private property.
Getting There
On highway 371, drive from downtown across the bridge over the San Juan River. Immediately on the west side of the river park. An old dirt road leads from the bridge south, along the side of the river. About a mile down, you'll find Kokopelli.
Start on the south side of the tower. Climb up the obvious (and only) dihedral to a ledge system halfway up the tower. Move right, out to the southern edge of the big summit block. Climb a short bolt ladder to the top....[more]Browse More Classics in NM
Um...this thing is on private property. All the back roads have been gated and if you think you can get through Bolacks Ranch, you better wear a kevlar vest. Rad climb though!
I'm stoked you guys actually did this. A striking summit that has lured local mountaineers for over 40 years. Crappy 1/4" Star dryvins on north side are David Nordstrom (c) 1973. Crappy 3/8" Phillips Red Head on south side is mine (c) 1981. We never got any farther than that. Blew it off & went to climb a new route on Barber Peak the same day.
Yes, Kokopelli Spire is on private land. On the first attempt Tom Bolack himself appeared to run us off. Second time we rapped down from the rim. This approach can be recommended with the following caveats:
1. Once over the edge, you're still on private land 2. Bring your trash ropes - they will get abraded on the jumar out 3. You still have to climb Kokopelli Spire which is a vertical stack of s**t.
Number 3 is just full disclosure: All the more reason to be impressed. It sounds like the climb went just the way we thought it would....
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