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Koh Tao

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big brother slab at golden view 
Climbers Cove, Rock Junkie 
Elephant, The 
golden slab at golden view 
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Mek's Mountain 

Koh Tao Rock Climbing 


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Location: 10.09584, 99.83523 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 4,044
Administrators: Brian Boyd, Nate Ball, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Brian Ways on Jan 9, 2014  with updates from Kris Henderson
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BETA PHOTO: Sport, Trad, TR and bouldering

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  • Koh Tao  

    Koh Tao/ Turtle Island is part of the chain of Islands in the gulf of thailand close to the islands Koh Phangan and Koh Samui. The island is giant granite boulder field, its is easily world class in terms of bouldering opportunity. Much of the crags and boulders are underdeveloped yet a few have that been developed most notably the secret garden (behind sairee beach) which has routes as hard as V11 (James and the Giant Peach) and Meks Mountain which has trad and sport routes up to that potentially go up to 7a+ and beyond.

    Getting There 

    From Bangkok: Use the lomprayah ferry service in khoa sarn rd to book a bus ride (7 hours) to the champhon and take the ferry (1 hour) There is a night ferry service available too.

    Alternatively the nearest airport is Koh Samui which is an hour and half ferry ride away.


    Climbing Season

    For the Thailand area.

    Weather station 0.2 miles from here

    64 Total Climbing Routes

    ['4 Stars',17],['3 Stars',15],['2 Stars',27],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',0]
    ['<=5.6',3],['5.7',4],['5.8',1],['5.9',17],['5.10',25],['5.11',10],['5.12',2],['5.13',2],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


    Featured Route For Koh Tao
    Rock Climbing Photo: Dave bottles it. 6a 12m  top rope or a Lovely Trad...

    Dave Bottled it 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Asia : Thailand : ... : Climbers Cove, Rock Junkie
    Dave bottles it. 6a 12m top rope or a Lovely Trad line with a great big horn as you first solid piece Good line need a good trad head . classic E1 (uk trad)...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

    Photos of Koh Tao Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: The Bouldering Guide to Koh Tao, Thailand
    The Bouldering Guide to Koh Tao, Thailand

    Comments on Koh Tao Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Timsahb
    Nov 1, 2014
    This information on Koh Tao is very outdated, there are 30+ sport (which you can also TR most), 10+ trad (including a 6 pictcher), remote TR climbs on isolated rocks and 1000's of bouldering problems.

    I have contacted one of the admins to offer to assist with editorial changes as I am the author of the guide listed in the link.
    By Nate Ball
    Administrator
    From: Portland, OR
    Nov 2, 2014
    I have deleted the route "Axe Attack" (poor description anyway) so that you can add areas. Please provide good descriptions (directions, rock type, types of climbs, sun/shade, etc.) for these areas, then add whatever routes you'd like. It's all yours!
    By Rock Junkie climbing Koh Tao
    From: koh tao
    Feb 12, 2015
    Koh tao is not an climbing area, it is an island with many climbing areas on it . please remove the koh tao area . leave mexs , machetey and climbers cove . from there we can start marking all the areas individually and not just koh tao .
    By Saif
    From: Portland, Oregon
    Feb 17, 2015
    Removed most of the information, all associated content must first be deleted before I can remove the page (rockjunkie,timsahb). In the meantime feel free to contact me if you would like anything added or removed till this page can be deleted.
    By mc kaiser
    From: Boulder, CO
    Sep 10, 2016
    It probably goes without saying, but this is a much better place to come to snorkel and dive.
    There is a climbing guide published and downloadable for free from the generous folks at Good Time Adventures while this site gets reorganized. Ko Tao Climbing Guide You can also rent crash pads there for like 300 THB/24hours there, but the pad I rented was pretty worn and wouldn't have served well to protect any high or bad landings.
    I have not spent an extensive amount of time here (5ish days), but what I encountered were mostly boulders. The rock is largely sharp and many of the problems that I saw have not seen ascents for some time (over grown with plants). The rock is sharp, but it does have nice friction. If you're interested in rope climbing, this is not a destination (IMHO), though it maybe the only place in Thailand where you could climb granitic trad. Definitely better if you're looking for > 5.10+ climbs, top roping, or are mostly in to bouldering.
    There was at one time an indoor bouldering wall, but it has been taken down to be replaced by a hostel.
    A final thought is that a few bouldering areas near to town are covered with trash, burning garbage, and cut down trees (ie. 'Secret Garden'), which look far different from the photos of the guidebook linked above. Since all the land is private, the sweet boulder you were hoping to hop on might now be a supporting structure for Ko Tao's most recent bungalow. It seems like there is a small community of people who are really psyched on this island for it's climbing, and so I hope that this doesn't sound like a downer. I certainly did not see nearly all of what Ko Tao had to offer climbing-wise, but what I observed did not make me want to come back here.

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