KOAlien  5.11+ R

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Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet Consensus:  5.11+ [details] FA:  Jason Seaver, Nate A., 3/20/05 New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  jason seaver on Mar 20, 2005 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: The line of KOAlien.

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Season raptor closures MORE INFO >>> The following areas are closed from March 1-July 31 or until further notice: Twin Owls, Rock One, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sheep Mountain, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Lightning Rock and Checkerboard Rock are currently closed. The closures include the named rock formations and the areas extending 100 yards surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes and climber's access trails to the formation. Alligator Rock is also closed. www.nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/area_closures.htm This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

This is the furthest East (right) route on The Book proper. Right of Fascist Drill In The West is The Campground route, and right again is Alien Algorithm (see description on this site). Our new little pitch starts right of Alien Algorithm, crosses it at its lone bolt, then it goes left through the obvious roof / bulge.

Start 15' right of Alien Algorithim in a left-leaning crack, just right of a big tree. Climb the crack to where some hard moves up and right allow access to another thin, left-leaning crack. Continue with more hard climbing to where you can pull out left to the foot ledge on top of Alien Algorithm's first roof. Clip the bolt on AA (newly replaced w/ 2 1/2" x 3/8" stainless steel bolt) and work out left under the roof to where some holds and a fixed wire lead over the bulge. Continue up a slabby arête to a slung horn anchor.

This pitch was established headpoint style over three partial days, the first of which was spent falling, hanging, and aiding on ground-up attempts. Nate and I eventually both led it placing all the gear except the fixed wire. The fixed wire is fixed only because we couldn't get it out; it was placed free on the lead. All the hard climbing is well-protected, but the 5.9ish arête above the roof is runout. This is pretty high quality and super fun climbing.

Protection 

Bring a light rack up to a red Camalot (although a gold can be used at the start). One bolt and one wire (currently) are fixed. Slung horn lower-off anchor at the top.