Fun route with a tough move that may be a bit cranker for the rating. The crux is between the first two bolts with some slopiness in pockets.
The route is pretty much vertical in nature, fun climbing throughout, although the crux is much harder than the rest of the route.
Route is pretty much in the middle of the wall. If you go to the arch/cave with Banana Dance in it, go left from here to the first well-chalked route. The route starts in a big chalky hueco.
4 bolts to anchors
From: Sandy, Ut
Jan 22, 2008
Fun climb. Worth doing if at the wall.
From: SLC, Utah
Jan 7, 2010
Fun climb, but for me this was definatly harder than a 10c!
|By Clark Aegerter|
Nov 28, 2010
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Great climb, but not straight forward like other 10c's; This one seems harder than a 10c. not as many pockets as you would think, in our guide book it said that it was a pocket hold route. Think more along the lines of small crimps, a few pinchs, small crimpy under cling at the top along with what looks like a huge jug but it is not!! so do not throw to it thinking it will solve your problems, get feet high enough to set your hands on it. once you get to the ledge above that happy happy day. FYI:last bolt is run out a ways, you got 3 bolts then the bolts at the top nothing between the 3rd and top.
|By Nicholas Yaskoff|
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jan 3, 2012
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
There was a group of about six people at the wall when I was climbing this route and everyone agreed that the route felt more like 11-. It's a fun route that requires good foot work and a fair amount of crimp strength. Don't feel bad if you get on the route and feel flummoxed about what to do, if you work the route a little it will all become clear.
|By Nathan Marsh|
From: st. george utah
May 5, 2012
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
this route is tougher than it looks, but felt like a solid 10(tougher than some of the other 10's, but did not feel like an 11). Clark is absolutely right. there is a bit of a run out to the top. and has a tendency to cause people to flip (saw two fall and flip)
From: saint george area
Jun 12, 2012
Crimpin. N pimpin
|By Marius vanderMerwe|
From: Saint George, UT
Oct 16, 2013
Finger-pulley-poppin'-crimp-fest. So be warned and plant those feet very carefully. Sandbagged at 10c.