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Know Your Enemies  

5.14-

   
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Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet
Consensus: 5.14- [details]
FA: Brian Kimball
New Route: Yes
Submitted By: Brian Kimball on May 11, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
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Description 

Climb Kinky Reggae to the big hold in the middle of the wall, but instead of doing the pocket crossover, switch your hands (right hand gaston pocket left hand two finger pocket). Then DYNO-HUCK to the big, dinner plate jug at the end of the Sweet Inspirations traverse, and finish up the path of least resistance Public Enemy.

The 2nd ascent went to Jimmy Webb who called it 5.13c, which seems like quite the sandbag, but we need more opinions. Several strong climbers have tried, but other than Jimmy, I don't know of anyone else who has actually stuck that MASSIVELY RAD, CRUX DYNO!


Protection 

Bolts.



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By Mr. Nick
Mar 17, 2013

CONDITION REPORT 

Another bolt is missing as of yesterday. The bolt that I used to clip from the jug that is two moves pre-dyno is gone. KYE and any link-up that uses this jug is now not as possible due to long run-outs. The screw is left, but the grooves of the screw have been tampered with and damaged.

By Brian Kimball
Apr 10, 2013

It's totally not thieves like I hoped at first, so we could hang them from the cliff ;o) Instead, it appears the strong winds are swinging the long draws around and causing the nuts to spin loose and the hangers and draws to fall off :o( No worries, problems solved now :o)