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Know Ethics 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Bradley White, 1985
Page Views: 3,464
Submitted By: Jay Knower on Oct 23, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (85)
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kevin getting through the crux...

Description 

Know Ethics climbs the tight inside corner to the right of Polly Purebred. Many a climber has lowered off only to say, "That was the hardest 5.10 I have ever done."

Though desperate, the climb is well protected with bolts. Climb up easy schist until below the orange corner. A hard pull deposits you into the corner at which point it might be helpful to think, "palms." And maybe "stems." Continue up the corner until it is possible to move left. You probably want to get out of the corner at this point anyway.

A hard move then leads back right, across the top of the corner, back into the gray schist. Easier moves give way to the anchor that, unlike almost every route on the wall, does not have quick clips. (edit - Does now)

Protection 

8 bolts and a pin or two. The chains must be threaded before lowering. How uncivilized.


Photos of Know Ethics Slideshow Add Photo
kevin getting it done in the cold!
kevin getting it done in the cold!
this bolt was just barely sticking out enough to make use of it... i love winter sport climbing...
this bolt was just barely sticking out enough to m...
Above the corner and in to the jugs...
Above the corner and in to the jugs...
wedged in the corner on a winter lap of Know Ethics...
wedged in the corner on a winter lap of Know Ethic...
otey poised to make the move left... trust that foot...
otey poised to make the move left... trust that fo...
Historic anchor bolt
Historic anchor bolt
Unknown climber in the crux.
Unknown climber in the crux.
james otey in the classically awkward corner of Know Ethics...
james otey in the classically awkward corner of Kn...
A historic piton and some oozing algae - a common sight right before entering the corner (and easily avoidable).
A historic piton and some oozing algae - a common ...

Comments on Know Ethics Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 15, 2014
By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Sep 17, 2007
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Climb the Extension!
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jan 29, 2008

this thing always feels hard every time i do it...
By David Aguasca!
From: New York
Sep 29, 2008

this route is pretty rad...but i dunno about it being the hardest 5.10 i've ever climb. the dihedral is tons of fun!
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jun 29, 2010

jeff on know ethics...

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Sep 15, 2010

there have been 2 fat glue in bolts added to the beginning of the route... anyone that climbs here much in the winter should be happy that the first one is left of where the ice pillar forms... no more running it out or bashing through ice to get to the first bolt :)

the second bolt protects the move to get up in to the corner where you are on a loose hold (that can only last so long) and had only a funky pin for pro in the past...

Thanks goes to the phantom that comes in the night bringing us new bolts to keep our climbing safe and fun!!!
By S. Neoh
Sep 15, 2010

Hear, hear, for the glue-in phantom. Take a bow.
I feel very insecure on this route (maybe due to the old pro, but I doubt it!). I will climb Centerpiece instead and fight the pump any day of the week!
By andyscott
From: Massachusetts
Nov 3, 2010

The extension is way betterrr... do itt.
By SmithBro
From: North Wilmot, New Hampshire
Mar 6, 2011

I will take my bow,although I did it for selfish resons. This is a super challenging barefoot climb,and I like to stay on the dry rock in winter. I also put an eye bolt below the lip on the extention, to make it easy to clip.
By S. Neoh
Mar 12, 2011

Thanks, Smithy, for the glue-in bolts, and, OK, you got me convinced; I will get on this climb this season and try out the extension.
By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Jul 20, 2012

"Tom Armstrong did the belaying. I initially did a pendulum right onto the bulge and traversed left and up to the belay of Iron Man. Tom followed and in cleaning the route had to move left instead of the pendulum I had done, consequently he did the first free climbing of the route as a second. I returned with Tom Bowker and did the first free ascent with him. Shortly after that the route was bolted above the crux. I guess my nested pitons in the corner spooked other climbers. Hint, the climb can be downgraded by going completely around the outside corner onto bigger footholds before the final crux. The 'Extension' was done almost immediately by me."

Comment by bradley white on July 21st, 2009 8:43 am
By MLevine
From: Nashua, NH
Apr 23, 2013

WOW. This route is awesome..
By MLevine
From: Nashua, NH
Sep 4, 2013

Just want to add that there are, in fact, quick clips now even though the description says otherwise. Awesome climb, one of my favorites!
By Lundy Bancroft
Oct 21, 2013

I just climbed it and it has quick clips on it now.
By Nick Grant
From: Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
Aug 3, 2014
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

An ULTRA-classic Rumney route in the mid-range category if you like techy, balancey climbing. This one's the opposite of a jug-haul, and it's a ton of fun. Be sure to get the no-hands rest when you're stemming in the notch before you move out left to the little arete. You can completely de-pump.
By john strand
From: southern colo
Sep 15, 2014

Now that this route has been climbed by an old, red headed climber..I propose an immediate down grade to 5.8

Your welcome, Nick