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 ADVANCED
Devil's Advocate
Select Route:
Crankin' stein T 
I Want My Mummy T 
Knots-feratu T 
Lichen-thrope T 
Northeast Ridge T 
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Knots-feratu 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c [details]
FA: Tony Bubb, Patty Johnson, 6/24/06
New Route: Yes
Season: North-facing, but belay w
Page Views: 313
Submitted By: Tony B on Jun 26, 2006

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Tony Bubb leads the F.A. of Knots-feratu (5.4) on ...

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Description 

Easy climbing with good pro. A decent beginner lead or a decent solo.
This route climbs up the obvious right-facing corner on the upper end of the North face of the D.A. The corner terminates just before the top, but there is still gear, and reasonable moves to gain the East Face, which is climbed to the summit.
It is a decent route that will improve with travel, as it might clean up a little more.

Location 

On the North Face of the Devil's Advocate, perhaps 15 meters downhill (east) of the Northwest corner of the rock you will encounter a obvious right-facing dihedral. Climb it.

Protection 

Take a standard light rack with some longer slings. The route goes up a trough about 30'to the summit once you reach the east face. There you can belay off of slings threaded through huecos.


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By Paul Kemp
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 1, 2008

Tony, you have the same photo for Lichen-thrope as you do for Knots-feratu. Based on your descriptions, I'm pretty sure the latter was the one I climbed, but I'm not sure to which route the photo belongs.
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