Knot Too Many Roaches
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Start below a big ramp and move up over easy holds. From the ramp, continue up to a decent ledge to clip the 4th bolt. Getting from here to the next bolt is the crux - some delicate moves on small, sloping holds with very little for the feet. Once at the 5th bolt, the holds are big and itís a much easier cruise to the anchor, although getting into position for the anchor is a little tricky. The crux can be avoided by moving left into the corner and back to the right to clip that 5th bolt. This makes the climb about 5.8. Either way this is a fun route. Rappel to descend.
This climb is on the panel just to the left of the arÍte on the left side of Pretty Boy Floyd.
6 bolts, cold shut anchor.
At the bottom of Knot Too Many Roach's.
Mark just past the crux.
Photo by Greg Kunkel.
Near the crux.
|Comments on Knot Too Many Roaches
|By Glenn Schuler|
From: Monument, Co.
Feb 13, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a
Both coldshuts at the top were spinners. If someone's got a wrench with them, they could use some tightening.
Feb 22, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
Climbing this straight on felt like 5.8, although clipping the 5th bolt might be tough if you are short. The 2nd bolt is placed such that no matter what length of draw you hang on it, the draw ends up laying on a ledge. The upper part of the route is really nice.
From: Colorado Springs
Feb 28, 2011
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b
Use a double length runner on clip 4. Then it's really just a couple of thin 5.10- moves to clip 5, and then it is back down to easier to finish.
Oct 29, 2012
Tightened the anchor bolts today. However, not keen on the idea of 1/2" shuts on 3/8" studs. Will probably work loose again before long.