Knot Too Many Roaches
5.10a/b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 2.2 from 137 votes
Type: | Sport, 55 ft (17 m) |
FA: | Bob Robertson and Brandon Schrim, 2010 |
Page Views: | 2,665 total · 17/month |
Shared By: | Bill Olszewski on Jan 23, 2011 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
Start below a big ramp and move up over easy holds. From the ramp, continue up to a decent ledge to clip the 4th bolt. Getting from here to the next bolt is the crux - some delicate moves on small, sloping holds with very little for the feet. Once at the 5th bolt, the holds are big and its a much easier cruise to the anchor, although getting into position for the anchor is a little tricky. The crux can be avoided by moving left into the corner and back to the right to clip that 5th bolt. This makes the climb about 5.8. Either way this is a fun route. Rappel to descend.
Location
This climb is on the panel just to the left of the arête on the left side of Pretty Boy Floyd.
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