Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
The Bank
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
2150 A.D. 
5.10 Crack 
5.10a corner 
5.11 Arete 
5.9 crack 
A Sharp 
Abu Simbel  
Aerial Solution 
Alfalfa Omega 
Another Bolted Crack 
Apple Cracks, The 
Aspiring Frog 
B Flat 
Baby Face Nelson 
Back To The Future 
Bambi Meets Godzilla 
Binge and Purge 
Birthing the Piggy 
Bits and Pieces 
Black Hole Sun 
Bum Cakes (formerly listed as Buns) 
C Major 
Cat Ate My Homework, The 
Cerebral Brain Freeze 
CJ & The Lesbian Seagull 
Concentrated Weirdness 
Courage and Enlightenment 
Crab Nation 
Dancin` Shoes 
Dave Dangle 
Deconstructing Harry 
Disciples of Hell 
Doggie Style 
Don Show, The 
Dust Lust 
Emperor's Robe 
Energy Before Ecstasy 
Ethics? What Ethics? 
Flesh Tuxedo 
From Russia With Love 
Future Fossil 
Gen X ation (aka Musso Route) 
Generation X 
Heaven is Waiting 
Heavy Weather 
Hostile Crankover 
Ice Cream Hangover 
Incredible Weather 
Knot Too Many Roaches 
Ladies' Night In Buffalo 
Large Marge 
Le Petit Verdon 
Le Pincher 
Lesser of Two Evils 
Let Me Out 
Lick and a Promise 
Lime Street 
Living in America 
Lost Planet Airman 
Loves Me Like a Rock 
Lynch Mob 
Ma Barker 
Machine Gun Kelly 
Mighty Mouse 
Mismatched Partners 
Neopolitan Headrush 
New Comer (aka New Corner) 
No Future for the Timid 
No Rest For the Wicked 
Number 1 Super Guy 
On the Mushroom 
Once Upon a Time 
Pennies and Piggydust 
Peter Pan 
Pig City Nights 
Pink Torpedo 
PiŮon Slalom 
Plate Tectonics 
Poncho and the Three Perverts 
Power Broker 
Pretty Boy Floyd 
Primal Scream 
Project Focus 
Puking Yuppies 
Purple Packer Smacker 
Razor Burn (aka Stewart's Slab) 
Richter Scale 
Rock Frog 
Scarf and Barf 
Season Down Under 
Shady Character 
Sonic Youth 
Sparkle In The Rain 
Starving Hippies 
Staying Power 
Stick It 
Stomach Stapler 
Stormy Weather 
Stranger in Moscow 
Sty in the Sky 
Surreal Estate 
Sweepings, The 
Taping Tendons 
Team Anorexia 
Tendon Respite 
This is Your Brain 
Thunder Tactics 
Thunder Thighs 
Tired Arms Recovery Program (T.A.R.P.) 
Tribal Boundary 
Tuff Shed (aka B&C) 
Unknown 5.7 
Unsaid, The (aka The Brothel) 
Unusual Weather 
War In The Banks 
Welcome to Shelf Road 
What's Biting Me? 
Who Asked You? 
Why Left 
Will Purr For Treats 
You Were Meant For Me 
Unsorted Routes:

Knot Too Many Roaches 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 55'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Bob Robertson and Brandon Schrim, 2010
Page Views: 725
Submitted By: Bill Olszewski on Jan 23, 2011
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (27)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Near the crux.


Start below a big ramp and move up over easy holds. From the ramp, continue up to a decent ledge to clip the 4th bolt. Getting from here to the next bolt is the crux - some delicate moves on small, sloping holds with very little for the feet. Once at the 5th bolt, the holds are big and itís a much easier cruise to the anchor, although getting into position for the anchor is a little tricky. The crux can be avoided by moving left into the corner and back to the right to clip that 5th bolt. This makes the climb about 5.8. Either way this is a fun route. Rappel to descend.


This climb is on the panel just to the left of the arÍte on the left side of Pretty Boy Floyd.


6 bolts, cold shut anchor.

Photos of Knot Too Many Roaches Slideshow Add Photo
Joshua starting the crux of Not Too Many Roach's.
Joshua starting the crux of Not Too Many Roach's.
Mark just past the crux. <br /> <br />Photo by Greg Kunkel.
Mark just past the crux.

Photo by Greg Kunkel.
At the bottom of Knot Too Many Roach's.
At the bottom of Knot Too Many Roach's.
Comments on Knot Too Many Roaches Add Comment
Show which comments
By Glenn Schuler
From: Monument, Co.
Feb 13, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

Both coldshuts at the top were spinners. If someone's got a wrench with them, they could use some tightening.

By slim
Feb 22, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Climbing this straight on felt like 5.8, although clipping the 5th bolt might be tough if you are short. The 2nd bolt is placed such that no matter what length of draw you hang on it, the draw ends up laying on a ledge. The upper part of the route is really nice.

By mountainmicah83
From: Colorado Springs
Feb 28, 2011
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

Use a double length runner on clip 4. Then it's really just a couple of thin 5.10- moves to clip 5, and then it is back down to easier to finish.

By dancesatmoonrise
Oct 29, 2012

Tightened the anchor bolts today. However, not keen on the idea of 1/2" shuts on 3/8" studs. Will probably work loose again before long.