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Unsorted Routes:

Knot Head 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 977
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Oct 11, 2003
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Knot Head is an old trad route that has been retro-bolted into a sport route. It is the second bolted line left of Dune, just left of Phase Dance, on the left wall of the alcove.

Follow thin to hand-sized cracks and face up the steep wall to the anchors. Be careful to avoid a loose flake at the top.

A good warm-up route.


9 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.

Per Jason Halladay: a standard rack would suffice for climbing the route entirely on gear, but the bolts for "The Opportunist" can easily be clipped from the crack.

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By ?????
Oct 20, 2003

Watch out for lots of loose rock. I almost got hit by a 12x12 in piece!

By Matt Price
Oct 9, 2007
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

It seems like the bolted route is mostly on the face left of the cracks / trad route. Either way, it is very easy and tempting to use the cracks, which makes it an option for a beginning leader.

By Jason Halladay
From: Los Alamos, NM
Mar 31, 2013

The route described here is "The Opportunist". Knot Head may indeed be the crack, though. I don't know the history of this wall. But the bolted line is "The Opportunist" as described by the guidebooks.