Knockin' on the Sky
||Trad, Sport, Alpine, 4 pitches, 300', Grade II
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]|
|FA: ||FA - Toby Stegman & Wes Gooch - FFA Toby Stegman|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Page Views: ||441|
|Submitted By: ||Toby on Dec 6, 2013|
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BETA PHOTO: The route
A nice mixed outing. Well protected with great rock and moves. Wild exposure!
p1- 5.10+ (15m) two bolts - optional gear - careful belay at bolt 2!
p2- 5.12- (20m) bolts!
p3- 5.10- (31m) bolts and gear.
p4- 5.10 (33m) bolts and gear. Tricky to read crux - 5.10 if you do it right!
From the last anchor climb up short slot left (easy) to top or down climb right and escape on 3rd class terrain to the walk off down the gully right. If you rap use two 60's or a 70m. The first rap is 32m straight down! CAREFUL ON P 3 RAP! There is a perma-draw to clip on the way down. The first person down may want to place directionals to make it more cozy feeling.
This last two pitches of the route route can be done as an exposed fun 5.10 if you can find the top bolts (fixe rings) and rap in. Take care in getting to the rappel station at top, and watch for the p3 rap. Look for the small tree from the top. We put a ski pole in some rocks upside down near the top to help find it.
Great route beta at the link below. climbingwyoming.com/2013/10/kn...
Down and right of Swordfish Lipstick but before Whistle Pigs. Look for striking arete and bolts.
12 or so quick draws and a single set of cams to two inches. A few small-medium stoppers if your feeling it.
If you rap the route and hang the draws on the crux p2, a long draw on the upper crux bolt is nice.
Walk off or rap the route with a 70m rope. WARNING be very careful on the p 3 rap as a swing here could send you waaayyyy into space.