Knockin' on Heaven's Door
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Begin by climbing up the easy handcrack to the right of the route, being sure to look for the vertebra wedged in the crack. Traverse left at the horizontal, and place gear (#1 Camalot sized). Then, climb into the main crack, which is mostly flared hands. The crux comes just before the slight bulge in the middle of the route. It is sustained, flared hands until the very top, where you pull over the lip. Build a gear anchor, and walk off to climber's right.
From the Lower Blair parking lot, drive West for just over 0.3 miles until the road takes a sharp turn to the left. Stop here, there should be an old road going off to the East. Follow this closed road and head right and uphill until you find the formation. Knockin' on Heaven's Door is the prominent, thin crack. There is also a bolted route about 100 feet to the left.
#0.75 or #1 Camalot for the horizontal (may want to put a sling on this piece). Then mostly green/yellow Alien sized pieces for the rest of the crack. It really is flared hands though, but the best gear comes from small gear in the back. #0.5 - #2 Camalot-sized pieces for the belay.
|Comments on Knockin' on Heaven's Door
From: Laramie, WY
May 10, 2008
Is this near behind Blue Eyes? It looks like a route I did over by that but a couple formations to the right if you are staring at behind Blue Eyes. From your description, I can't really tell. If it isn't though, go wander around over there by behind Blue Eyes. There are a couple of decent lines. The route we did was maybe 10 + and had a possible direct star on crimps and slopers to the horizontal.