Knockin' on Heaven's Door  5.11-

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet Consensus:  5.11- [details] FA:  Pablo Kollmar New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  Orphaned on May 9, 2008 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

Begin by climbing up the easy handcrack to the right of the route, being sure to look for the vertebra wedged in the crack. Traverse left at the horizontal, and place gear (#1 Camalot sized). Then, climb into the main crack, which is mostly flared hands. The crux comes just before the slight bulge in the middle of the route. It is sustained, flared hands until the very top, where you pull over the lip. Build a gear anchor, and walk off to climber's right.

Location 

From the Lower Blair parking lot, drive West for just over 0.3 miles until the road takes a sharp turn to the left. Stop here, there should be an old road going off to the East. Follow this closed road and head right and uphill until you find the formation. Knockin' on Heaven's Door is the prominent, thin crack. There is also a bolted route about 100 feet to the left.

Protection 

#0.75 or #1 Camalot for the horizontal (may want to put a sling on this piece). Then mostly green/yellow Alien sized pieces for the rest of the crack. It really is flared hands though, but the best gear comes from small gear in the back. #0.5 - #2 Camalot-sized pieces for the belay.