Knightshift 5.10+ PG13
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10c/d [details] |
| FA: | (TR) Bobby Knight, Todd Swain, FL: Tony Sartin, Tom Murphy, Sonja Djuricin 04/07 |
| Submitted By: | sonja on May 2, 2007 |
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Description This was originally done as a TR off of the Crime of the Century midpoint anchor. It now goes to the top of the cliff, joining the Crime of the Century chimney near the top.
Begin 8 feet left of CoC on a juggy, left-trending overhang to a bolt at the lip.
The climb then wanders up the face, paralleling the CoC crack for 80 feet, passing 6 bolts and supplemental gear, to the base of the COC chimney.
Either traverse left and lower off the Humerous anchor or continue up the CoC chimney to the summit. For the most bang for your buck, link this up with the 5.11b Ridiculous Finish.
Crux between 3rd and 4th bolts.
Can be toproped after climbing Humerous or Funnybone.
Location 8 feet left of CoC. Shade all day.
Protection 6 bolts, single set of stoppers, gear from green alien to .75 camalot (larger gear if finishing up the chimney)
By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
Mar 14, 2011
rating: 5.10
| This route, using the first 4 bolts, is a good way for sissies to get to the anchors of Crime of the Century to string a TR. |
By juancho
Mar 14, 2011
| I saw those bolts right next to Crime of the century the last time i was there. Newsflash: it's OK to leave things as topropes, people. |
By Drederek
Apr 7, 2011
rating: 5.10+ PG13
| Beware the oatmeal! Its still a fine TR with the bolts, they did not bother me a bit! |
By Jeff Scheuerell
Apr 12, 2011
| Not sure about that Russ, Crime of the Century felt easier and had better protection. |
By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
Apr 12, 2011
rating: 5.10
| Not sure about that Russ, Crime of the Century felt easier and had better protection.
So you are saying COTC is kinda like 5.8 with great pro? |
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