|1,377 page views|
|Type: ||Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet|
|Consensus: ||5.10a/b [details]|
|FA: ||(TR) unknown, FL: Brad Singer, October 2001|
|Season: ||Year round depending on snow|
|Submitted By: ||Isaac T. on Mar 19, 2007|
BETA PHOTO: Steve nearing the first crux, pulling the roof. Lo...
The first bolt is about 40 feet up but you can place gear on easy 5.8+ cracks to the first bolt if you don't feel comfortable running it out. The crux is found when you have to pull the roof although you have very good hands and a bolt right at your waist. The final crux is moving to the last bolt kind of a tricky slab move on thin hands. This one is rope stretcher a 60 m rope was not long enough to lower all the way to the ground.
This route is hard to miss it follows a prominent corner up to a cool looking roof.
7 bolts and medium to small cams (I used a #1 Camalot and a .5 Camalot), 2 bolt anchor at the top.
BETA PHOTO: Knightline (5.10a), Castle Rock
BETA PHOTO: Bolts at the top of Knightline on July 31, 2010.
BETA PHOTO: New Knightline anchor.
|By Josh Hibbard|
From: Los Angeles Area, CA
Mar 29, 2007
I thought Knightline was two or three climbs to the left of this one. Not sure of the name of the climb pictured, but I believe it is more of a 5.10a. Knightline, which is more on the face around the left corner of this climb, goes at 5.10C with two sets of crux moves. I could be wrong... I will see if I can figure it out in my old guide book.
|By C Miller|
Mar 29, 2007
Josh, perhaps you're thinking of The Roofs (5.10d)? The climb pictured is Knightline.
|By vincent L.|
May 7, 2008
The climb pictured is Knightline and I feel it is 10a , the Singer guide also calls it 10a.
|By C Miller|
Aug 16, 2010
Interesting climbing up a vertical face utilizing cracks and face holds leads to the crux roof where a long reach to an incut plate enables access to the upper slabby face. Kind of a one-move wonder with the crux being out of place with the rest of the route. Highly recommended.
|By susan peplow|
From: Joshua Tree
Jul 10, 2011
Anchor Report unchanged as of 7/9/11. Backup possible using old SMC bolts behind the set in question. Threads (on bolt climber's right) appear to be stripped so replacement will likely be necessary.
|By Russ Walling|
Jul 10, 2011
Good route, not real hard, plenty of rests, and eats up pro, especially since there are a stack of bolts available for your clipping pleasure. I thought there was some fairly suspect loose rock just below the roof and I did not think the jug that forms the left edge of the roof could withstand my assault. Be careful if you are somewhat large or like to pull outwards on jugs. Anchors are a sad mess and do not have lower-offs on the bolts.
|By Chris Owen|
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Aug 1, 2011
As mentioned by Susan; there is a two-bolt anchor up and left of this one (as you arrive at the anchor), quite close. Also to the right of and behind the anchor (facing it) there is a nice crack, which would take some 2"-3" cams. If you're going to top-rope though you'll need to hike to the top and set the anchor up with long slings - or lead up with 'biners and a cordelette/webolette.
|By Nelson Day|
From: Victorville, CA
Aug 8, 2011
Anchor update: The anchors at the top are still in very bad shape. I ended up having to thread the rope through two hangers for another climb on the top of the climb. After I rapelled off, the rope didn't want to pull. I had to put my entire weight on the rope to get it to pull through the two hangers. Definitely less than ideal. If you are planning on doing this climb, I would recommend taking some webbing with you to the top to thread through the bolt hangers; you can rappel off of the webbing after you put it through the hangers.
Other than that, what an amazing climb! This climb has a little of everything for you! I took a standard rack with me up the climb, and placed about 5 pieces below the first bolt. I had to do a couple finger jams on the lower sections of the climb. There is plenty of trad protection, but make sure you bring a rack with pieces up to 2". I placed a #1 below the crux and between the upper bolts. The bolt at the crux is above the roof, and unless you feel comfortable climbing past the lower section of the crux and relying on the bolt 5 feet below you, this cam is needed.
I used a 70m rope, and when I reached the ground, both ends of the rope were on the ground. I definitely recommend this climb! Great moves and great rock! Replacing the anchor at the top would make this climb a must do in the castle rock area!
From: Joshua Tree, California
May 13, 2012
Anchors have been replaced as of May 12, 2012...with good solid bolts with lower off or rap chains. 5.10a/b sounds about right...Great great climb...
|By Rob Selter|
From: running springs Ca
Jul 18, 2012
|By roman d|
From: Pasadena, CA
Jul 22, 2012
Thanks much for the bolt upgrade!
|By Rob M|
Oct 9, 2012
Block at roof is marked as loose with chalk X. Looks dicey....