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Knee Surgery 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Marty Brenner & Ross Newby
Page Views: 869
Submitted By: Bob Hill on Jan 1, 2002
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Floyd Hayes leading Knee Surgery 5.10a. Photo by C...

Description 

This route starts next to Stage Fright, but goes up and to the left to common anchors. The moves are all there, but it's balancy and awkward in spots. The crux may actually be getting started as you step off the block over the abyss to actually get on to P-Wall itself - have your belayer stand below the start in the gully. This is a good, short route that demands your attention. The first ascentionist told me this was his first climbing activity after knee surgery, and hence the name.


Protection 

I think there are four bolts, if I remember right.



Photos of Knee Surgery Slideshow Add Photo
Cheri Ermshar cleaning Knee Surgery 5.10a. Photo by Floyd Hayes.
Cheri Ermshar cleaning Knee Surgery 5.10a. Photo b...
Comments on Knee Surgery Add Comment
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By Marty Brenner
From: Durango, CO
Sep 16, 2006
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a R

I only placed three bolts. A fourth bolt would be nice for a direct finish through the bulge (probably mid.11). I'm living in CO now and won't finish that project, so have at it. The holds are sharp, but it is all there.

Also, Ross Newby should get credit for doing the first ascent with me.

By vincent L.
Apr 2, 2008

There are three bolts. the climbing after the third bolt is run out, the route is only 60 feet high so you don't need to climb far above the last bolt to be in a position to fall over half the route.

the route is good but it is mungy. doesn't seem like it gets climbed much. it is a good route to climb.

By Floyd Hayes
Oct 17, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

Good, clean route, now well protected. The first move to the bolt seemed hard from below, so I placed a big cam higher up in the gully. But then I discovered I could easily reach the bolt from the left, so after clipping the bolt I removed the cam. Despite being steep, the holds were all positive, requiring more balance than brute strength.

By John Knight
Jan 21, 2012
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a PG13

This is one of my favorite routes on P-Wall. Steep, well protected, relatively solid, and often in the sun. I hate to split hairs, but I think the grade is somewhere between 5.9 and 5.10a. I would encourage people getting on it for the first time to bring a couple cams (1/2" to 1" range") and shoulder length slings to protect the move to the first bolt (see Floyd's comments).

By Ryan Nevius
From: The Range of Light
Feb 27, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

Some loose holds on this route. The movement is mellow and consistent. No way did it feel like 5.10 at any point though...Worth doing.