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This climb is towards the right side of the climbing at the Parlor, and just right of the big ledge from which Ice Cream Parlor Crack climbes from. It is a fun line if you like squeeze chimney. If you don't, don't bother climbing it. The climb starts just right of a bolted arete and heads up and right through a small amount of broken rock to reach a big, solid, right-facing dihedral, protecting with standard equipment. After maybe 10 meters, the crack widens to take big gear (#4 camalot or larger) and then widens sufficiently to squeeze in. You will pop up onto a ledge before facing a second dihedral with a single protruding flake 1 meter up that keeps you out of the chimney for a few awkward moves before you can get in again. Once in, step back a few moves to a good foot-rail, then make your way for the light above, and fixed anchors. These Ancors are for Knee Grinder, Coffin, and the sport-climb between.
A set of cams from 1" to as big as you want to carry. THe chimney up top where it is wide is protected by a single bolt out on the right face, then run out 8 meters or so. Falling should not be considered an option, since it would require dynamite to extract you from the crack if you wedged into the bottom of it, 50' below. Thankfully, this would be unlikely.
|By Greg D|
Jan 20, 2008
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a
John Varco did the first ascent in roughly 1995. He placed the bolt on lead and by hand. I had the "pleasure" of being the third one up it on toprope as a brand new climber, maybe third time climbing ever. Crapped my pants. Did it again last fall. Getting inside is not an option for bigger folk. I'm just under 2 bills @ 5' 11" and had to stay outside.
A small/medium Big Bro can be used to protect the upper section. The crack is a bit too wide for a #6 Camalot.