Continue with onX Maps
Continue with Facebook
Routes in Ice Cream Parlor
|
10 TR S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
5.6 Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
A Good Day to Die T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
Bastardized Old Route T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
|
|
Black Slab S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
Brewed Awakenings T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
|
|
Brush Your Teeth T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Cherry Garcia Tower T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Climate Refugee T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
|
|
Coffin Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
|
|
Crack 1 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Crack 2 T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Crack 3 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Critical Mass T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Doghead Fish T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Earth Muffin Express S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
|
|
Epidemic T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Freezer Burn T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Hot Karl Sunday S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
|
|
Ice Cream Parlor Crack T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Jumbletron, The T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13 |
|
|
Knee Grinder T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
|
|
Kura Buran S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
|
|
Left Slab S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
Linda's Way T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
|
|
Nightlight T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Pandemic T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
|
|
Parlor Game S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Plush S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Pork Soda T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
|
|
Possessed S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
|
|
Rain S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
|
|
Rattler T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
|
|
RP City T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
|
|
Slab Route S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
Space Ghost T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Sticky Fingers S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Susie Cream Cheese (aka 5.10tr) S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
T-Rex T,S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
|
|
Unknown OW T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Vanilla Cream T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
|
|
Wasteland T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
Order Wrong?
Sort Routes
| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | John Varco |
| Page Views: | 2,237 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Oct 23, 2004 |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
This climb is towards the right side of the climbing at the Parlor, and just right of the big ledge from which Ice Cream Parlor Crack climbes from. It is a fun line if you like squeeze chimney. If you don't, don't bother climbing it. The climb starts just right of a bolted arete and heads up and right through a small amount of broken rock to reach a big, solid, right-facing dihedral, protecting with standard equipment. After maybe 10 meters, the crack widens to take big gear (#4 camalot or larger) and then widens sufficiently to squeeze in. You will pop up onto a ledge before facing a second dihedral with a single protruding flake 1 meter up that keeps you out of the chimney for a few awkward moves before you can get in again. Once in, step back a few moves to a good foot-rail, then make your way for the light above, and fixed anchors. These Ancors are for Knee Grinder, Coffin, and the sport-climb between.
Protection
A set of cams from 1" to as big as you want to carry. THe chimney up top where it is wide is protected by a single bolt out on the right face, then run out 8 meters or so. Falling should not be considered an option, since it would require dynamite to extract you from the crack if you wedged into the bottom of it, 50' below. Thankfully, this would be unlikely.
1 Comment