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Rockfellow Dome
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Knead Me 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a R

   
Type: , 6 pitches, 500', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Mike McEwan,, Dave Baker 1972
Page Views: 1,338
Submitted By: John Peterson on Feb 4, 2006
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Closed from March 1 to June 30 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is the wide crack system to the right of Abra. An interesting route but a very strenuous day and not for those afraid of chimney and offwidth climbing.

Pitch 1: climb the chimney to a belay at the bolts (5.7 R). This is hard to protect without big stuff (and perhaps not protectable even with it) but fairly secure.

Pitch 2: grunt up the crack above (5.10a). This is a little bit of everything - stemming, OW, fist.

Pitch 3: climb up to a bolt and tension traverse left (scary!) to a ledge. The bolt really should be replaced - if it fails the fall would be very nasty. The anchors on P2 are also in bad shape.

Pitches 4-6: join Abra in the cracks below the Friendly Flake.


Protection 

A bigbro is useful to protect P1 but not necessary. P2 is mostly larger cams but nothing huge is needed. #4 camalot is probably the biggest you need.



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By jbak
Feb 17, 2006

The first pitch may actually warrant a soft "X". I got no pro at all. It's fairly secure (it's a squeeze) but if you DID fall.......badness.