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Knapsack Crack 
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Knapsack Crack 

5.5

   
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Type: Trad, 3 pitches
Consensus: 5.4 [details]
FA: 
Submitted By: Scott "Scoboni" Powell on Apr 4, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (68)
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Bill H on Knapsack Crack, 7/16/11.

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Description 

Start below the lone tree on the east side of Hogsback. The first pitch ends at the tree and is very easy. From the tree the second pitch contains some 5.5 moves, but due to the low angle of the rock it doesn’t feel that way. A 60 m rope gets you from the tree to the end of the second pitch. Use a 50 m and you will be belaying from the crack itself. Not that this is a bad thing as it helps to build confidence in belaying without a ledge.

The third pitch is again very easy to climb and protect. Upon reaching the top, walk off to the left to return to more climbs or to head for climbs at the Leap.


Protection 

Small to large cams and chocks. I found an old piton on the second pitch that seemed fairly secure. There were one or two places I thought a Big Bro would fit.



Photos of Knapsack Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Pierce onsights Knapsack on TR!

Pierce onsights Knapsack on TR!

Jen McAllister - 1st multipitch-  approaching 1st belay station

Jen McAllister - 1st multipitch- approaching 1st ...

Kaari Volway heading up the 3rd pitch

Kaari Volway heading up the 3rd pitch

Quite a busy day on Knapsack. Belay at the tree then again where the crack narrows and there's a small ledge.

BETA PHOTO: Quite a busy day on Knapsack. Belay at the tree th...

Brian Aitken topped out after a quick run up Knapsack Crack on Hogsback in South Lake Tahoe. Photo by John Zirinsky.

Brian Aitken topped out after a quick run up Knaps...

Knapsack Crack 5.5. Most of the first 2 pitches.

BETA PHOTO: Knapsack Crack 5.5. Most of the first 2 pitches.

Somewhat grainy - bottom of knapsack by a 3/4 moon. The moon hadn't emerged from behind hogsback until we were into the second pitch.  Snow on the ground - made for much more interesting climb.

Somewhat grainy - bottom of knapsack by a 3/4 moon...


Comments on Knapsack Crack Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 2, 2013
By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Jan 23, 2007

you don't need big bros to do this route...

Also, I would recommend Deception (5.6) to fledgling leaders if there is a line on knapsack (quite common on weekends.) Deception generally has fewer parties, and much more quality 5th class moves with good gear.

Pop Bottle is another good 5.6 for a beginning leader, on the East wall. PB is also nice because you can walk off after the 1st pitch.

By Evan1984
Mar 6, 2008

This is a good welcome climb to lover's leap. Big Bros are definetly unnecesary. I took a set of nuts and a light set of cams to BD#4 and was fine. There are so many places to protect, going bigger won't gain you anything.

p1. This was my GF first trad lead. It is pretty straightforward with good resting stances to place and a bomber tree to belay off of, which was good since she is less experienced at anchor building.

p2. Definetly climbing, but still not a problem.

p3. Again, mellow, but the moves are up and over a series of blocks, so it could get heady if you aren't confident at the grade.

The approach is harder than the climb.

Cheers

By GMBurns
Jul 21, 2008

Did this in a team of three as a simul-climb. There's nothing to worry about on this climb, though it does get a bit more interesting near the top where the crack flares and the blocks begin. Plenty of good gear if needed.

By Joe Ludlow
From: Denver, Colorado
Jun 9, 2010

If you belay from above the tree you can do this in 2 pitches. If you belay at the tree, you can simulclimb about 20' up so the leader can reach the belay station. Likewise with a 70m rope, you can just belay from the tree and be just fine.

I took my friend on this for his first trad lead and he had a ball! The moves are juuuust dicey enough to require gear if you're uncomfortable.

Oh, and this was my first free solo! YAY!

By Josh Cameron
Jul 17, 2011

A good beginner's route, but drab and uninspriring if you can climb harder than 5.7.

By OKClimber
From: Folsom
Aug 28, 2011

Climbed this late August 2011 - careful, there was a snake about 30' up the second pitch in a perfect crack! The party ahead of us heard a "rattle" but I cant confirm the type of snake. Spooked me though when I saw my next hand jam start to move!

All in all, this was a great route for me to take a couple new climbers out on. Fairly easy, low exposure and a great time. Highly recommend it for new climbers and leaders.

By Brendan Moriarty
From: Berkeley, CA
Jul 4, 2012
rating: 5.5

Unless you are an absolute novice outdoors, multi-pitching or w/ trad I think you'll find this route to be pretty boring. Do Deception instead -- it's much better.

By Phil McAllister
Nov 24, 2012
rating: 5.4

This is a pretty fun climb to do by moonlight (as a pretty confident 5.7 leader) - with the route being as straightforward as it is - nicely defined crack to follow - very little concern getting off-route. takes a pretty tame 5.5 and makes it quite interesting a lot of fun. Make sure that you have a headlamp to check those gear placements in the cracks though.

By Brennen T
From: SLC,Utah/Roseville, california
Feb 16, 2013

Great morning solo! get up before everyone who is camping and take a solo lap and then head over to the steeper walls for the rest of the day!

By Aerili
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Feb 20, 2013

^^^ Pointless spray alert.


And imitation is the sincerest form of flattery.
|
v

By Kid Icarus
Feb 23, 2013

^^^ Pointless bitch alert.

By Ima Fred Knot
From: Victoria, Seychelles
Feb 25, 2013

Feed me!
Feed me!
Submitted By: Ima Fred Knot on Feb 25, 2013

By Brennen T
From: SLC,Utah/Roseville, california
Mar 8, 2013

its not spray wtf? im sorry if you need your big shinny rack to climb a 5.5 i really do feel bad for you, but some of us rather enjoy easy solo's, and i provided that information based on that.

edit,
i apologize for this comment, it was unnecessary, was not trying to be a jack ass

By J. Albers
From: Colorado
Mar 9, 2013

Usually I'm the one giving Aerili a hard time, but Brennen, she has a point. And yeah, maybe I do need a big rack to climb a 5.5, so what? Perhaps it would be wise not to look down on people just because they are not studly enough to solo a mindbending route like Knapsack.

Considering none of the last six comments (including mine) in any way add constructive commentary to this route page, how about we agree to delete the comments starting with the solo king comment?

By Brennen T
From: SLC,Utah/Roseville, california
May 1, 2013

This is a FUN solo, much better than tying in, now i admit that i was once getting elvis leg on routes similar to this, we all had to start somewhere! and yes i still do rope up and take beginers on this route, but was i being a show off jerk? no, was i trying to sound like the coolest cat on the block? no!! i was simply stating that this is a good solo to get up early for and to start the day off and get some blood flowing before you tackle some more challenging routes. Im sorry that it has offended some of you folks, my comment about the big rack was unnecessary and rude i will admit. but i was simply trying to share some of my experiences with the route, that is what this website is for.

By Ima Fred Knot
From: Victoria, Seychelles
May 2, 2013

I'm not sure how claiming a climb is a good solo is relavent beta. I imagine any climb is a good solo if you are comfortable on it (Moonlight Buttress is a great solo... for Alex Honnold). A soloist will have the experience to decide for themself.

More importantly soloing is a super personal choice/experience, so why advocate it to people you don't know? It's like saying "this stretch of road is great to drive with your seat belt off, give it a try". If I want to drive without a seat belt I will, but not because someone else recommended it, nor would I ever recommend it.

We'd love to readabout your experiences, via a Trip Report (with pics and maybe some inspirational music). -IFK

By Kid Icarus
May 2, 2013

There are plenty of endorsements of fun climbs to solo in other LL route comments. There was already one in this very comment section, you illiterate fucks!