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Knapping With The Alien 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Kyle Copeland, Linus Platt, 91
Season: Fall to early spring, eve
Page Views: 3,996
Submitted By: Brian Scoggins on May 31, 2006
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (50)
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BETA PHOTO: Knapping is the face, Mother Trucker is the left f...

Description 

Fun crimps and mantles up an ever-so-slightly under vertical wall. Hard for short people. All the hard moves are at bolts, and/or from large ledges that you can safely land on if you miss. Good holds all the way.


Location 

OBVIOUS sport route on edges, about 50 yards right of Bad Moki Roof.


Protection 

5 drilled pins and chains



Photos of Knapping With The Alien Slideshow Add Photo
Good shot of the line <br />January, 2011
Good shot of the line
January, 2011
Kevin techin' out Knapping with the Alien
Kevin techin' out Knapping with the Alien
Crux of Knapping with the Alien
Crux of Knapping with the Alien
Perhaps the best part of this climb is belaying out of the truck....
Perhaps the best part of this climb is belaying ou...
This is where it gets hard for short people
This is where it gets hard for short people
First go at it.
First go at it.
Wallstreet - Knapping With The Alien
Wallstreet - Knapping With The Alien
Comments on Knapping With The Alien Add Comment
Show which comments
By Dane Casterson
From: Boulder
Oct 24, 2007

Any word on how that last pin before the anchors is fairing? Spring '07 it was getting a little wobbly.

By T_jones
From: Salty Lake
Apr 21, 2008

Great bolts spaced super close together when I climbed this yesterday...the crux was a little perplexing with so many different holds to choose from that were all pretty bad

By Greg D
From: Here
Jan 30, 2009
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

All bolts were in fine condition as of fall 08.

By Jay Samuelson
From: Denver CO
Mar 31, 2010
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

All the bolts on this are fine as of march 2010. What a sweet little route! Good technical face climbing with some good rests to size up the crux moves before you go for it.

By Conor Raney
From: Pinedale, WY
Nov 1, 2010
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

Loved this one!!! I love napping with aliens...no really, I do.

By Jikimika Dinglehoffer Merritt
From: Lander, Wy
Apr 12, 2011

Ok climb but watch the ledges around bolt 4, they can be in the path of a fall at the upper crux. Would be great but the feet are WAY too sandy to be doing technically demanding moves on.

By timothyrgriffen
May 4, 2012
rating: 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII E4 6a

Not sure if I would call this thing 12a. It's Maybe 5.10 climbing to a v4-boulder problem. Closer to 11c.

By Skylar Smith
May 20, 2012

Excellent route. I would definently recommend this one. I think this is probably 5.11d.

By D-Storm
Mar 13, 2014
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a PG13

The route is well bolted the bolts are exactly where you need them and where the best clipping stances are but I thought the second clip was kind of dicey. It's sort of mid-crux and you're far enough up and right of the first bolt that you could have a nasty fall onto the ledge if a foot slipped and your core strength gave out. Heads up for anyone unsure about leading the grade.

@ Timothy regarding the grade: V4 equates to 12a in most V-scale conversion tables I have seen. V3 is 11+, V2 is 11-, and V0 is 5.10; in my experience that's been pretty accurate.

I guess I'm bringing this up just because I am getting tired of the Moab sandbags and attitude. Call me a weakling, I don't care. I'm just saying that every time I climb around there, I feel an air of arrogance wafting from some locals who hover around the routes they have dialed, spray visitors down with unsolicited beta and then affirm that blahblahblah is really a full grade lower than what it says in the guidebook (if it even says it in the guidebook). I still climb the routes. I still think they're fun and I haven't cared enough to say anything until now, because this attitude is getting old. (This isn't necessarily directed at Tim; he just touched on a topic that set me off.)

As for me, when it comes to grading routes, I really try to give an honest opinion to help people choose appropriate climbs. Sometimes I get the distinct impression that a dirtbag is just trying to mash my ego down with his big dick, and this is me saying, I get it your dick is huge. Now leave me alone to enjoy my climbing experience.

By Jordan Hirro
From: Colorado Springs/Glenwood Spri
Mar 27, 2014

Very very good route. 12- seems right to me... the v4 boulder problem at the top I think constitutes that. Have at her! Super good climbing!