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Kloof Alcove

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Kloof Alcove 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 39.93163, -105.28704 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 57,230
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Pinklebear on Nov 30, 1999
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Bob Horan on Polygap, Kloof Alcove.
Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The Kloof Alcove is a short but very overhanging wall of nicely featured sandstone on the west side of the large gully leading up to the Yellow Spur etc. It faces due west and holds good shade until noon or one during the hotter months.

The routes here are steep and pumpy with little or no fixed protection. Though the routes often follow overhanging crack systems, the climbing takes place primarily on buckets and face holds. Fixed anchors at the top of the left side of the wall facilitate top-roping and lowering.

A new route, Iron Monkey (formerly known as Lycra Clad Donkeys), located here may be the most difficult route here in the Canyon.


Getting There 

Approach as for the West Face of Redgarden Wall. About halfway to the base of Yellow Spur a signed trail branches left to the Kloof Alcove. Follow it.

Total approach time: 15 minutes.


7 Total Routes


['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',2],['5.11',1],['5.12',4],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Kloof Alcove:
Kloof   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch   
Sequential   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Superfly   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Trad, 1 pitch, 65'   
Browse More Classics in Kloof Alcove

Featured Route For Kloof Alcove
Sequential climbs the thin crack right of center in the photo. It shares the same start with Kloof which traverse left on the heavily chalked buckets above the center of the photo.

Sequential 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a  CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : Kloof Alcove
Locate the start of Kloof and boulder up the jugs to the ledge. Jam and layback straight up the groove to the second chalked-up jug rail.... Place bomber pro and launch off on the crux sequence and the best 3 feet of steep jamming in Eldo.... Weave out left and up to the anchor OR finger jam straight up the crack (better and a little harder). An excellent pitch, possibly the best (sans fixed) pitch of its grade in the canyon!...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Local Information for Kloof Alcove
Photos of Kloof Alcove Slideshow Add Photo
John Baldwin leading Paligap. Early Free Ascent.
John Baldwin leading Paligap. Early Free Ascent.
John Baldwin, Nov. 1980 on Paligap 5.12a (aka Polygap). John Baldwin belayed by Mark Rolofson.
John Baldwin, Nov. 1980 on Paligap 5.12a (aka Poly...
The Paligap takes a bite!
The Paligap takes a bite!
Comments on Kloof Alcove Add Comment
Show which comments
By Scott Hahn
Apr 1, 2006

What is the route to the right of Extendogap, up the the this seam with a fixed piece on it - to a arete/or dihedral???

By Roy Leggett
Apr 1, 2006

Lycra-Clad Donkeys/Iron Monkey. 14a.

By Michael Haag
May 20, 2006

The grade of 14a / 8a+ is correct, BUT...free name variation Iron Monkey was given by the 3rd? ascentionist who thought he was the first. First ascentionist?? (it IS an obvious line in Eldo) Raphael Daly named it Noir, after an anime series. I prefer to call it the original, Lycra Clad Donkeys (err...Asses).

By Will Butler
From: Boulder, CO
May 16, 2008

It's beyond me why anyone would want to change a name as sweet as Lycra Clad Donkeys. Lycra Clad Monkeys might however be a suitable compromise. I just like the image.

By tony herr
Apr 17, 2010

I would like to add information to the Kloof Alcove page:

Where is the Paligap listing? First Free Ascent, Skip Guerin and John Baldwin February 1981. Listed in "Rock Climbing Eldorado Canyon" page 240 #8. Old school grade 5.12a. Small Friends and wires protect steep holds. Belay at a ledge with two pins. Stem corner above to the top.

By tony herr
Apr 17, 2010

Lycra Clad Donkeys: First Female Aid Ascent: Marcella Baldwin, July 1995. 5.10a-C2

By mtoensing
From: Boulder
Jun 5, 2013

Watch out for poison ivy on the approach. It's everywhere!