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Redgarden - Roof Routes
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Downpressor Man S 
Evangeline S 
Fire and Ice  T,S 
Gem, The T 
Guardian Saint T 
Guen-Ice  T 
Guenese T 
Hands In The Clouds T,S 
Huck Off T,S 
Kloeberdanz T 
Kloeberdeath/ Candallegro T 
Last Rite T 
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Le Toit Direct T 
Le Verne T 
Lipsync T,S 
Mean Lean T 
Psycho S 
Rosy Toit T 
Scary Canary T 
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Trippin T 
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Wasabe S 
Wisdom, The T 

Kloeberdeath/Candallegro 

YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Rob Candaleria , Mic Fairchild
Fixed Hardware: 3 Lead Bolts, 2 Belay Bolts [details]
Page Views: 2,036
Submitted By: Mic Fairchild on Jul 16, 2003

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Rob, on the first ascent. note that kloeberdanz, a...

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  • Description 

    The roof wall area on the Redgarden Wall holds the testpiece 'Psycho', and is the steep, 80 foot, brown face capped by an obvious, 5-8 foot roof. The rock continues above the roof to the Upper Meadow of the Redgarden Wall. The roof wall is located at the base of the lower Ramp, and is best approached on the normal Redgarden Trail. This area is popular in the winter months because it can warm quickly in the sun and, protected by the overhang, is usually dry.

    Locate 'Kloeberdanz' at the right edge of the overhang band, where it begins in a somewhat dirty-looking, right-facing corner beneath a striking arete formed by the edge of the roof. It is uphill from 'Touch 'n Go' and downhill of 'Guenese' and the other roof routes.

    After turning the 'Kloeberdanz' roof, you immediately launch onto the arete that constitutes the end of the roof wall proper. Rob added a bolt after the first ascent to protect this strenuous section. Getting established onto the face seems to be the main crux. There is difficult climbing on the face about 40 more feet to the '[[Guenese]105748780' belay.

    Protection 

    6-8 QDs, wires, #3 Friend. There is a good bolt at the Kloeberdanz roof, and a bolt along the underside of the arete to protect those moves onto the crux face above, which is also bolted.


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    By Mic Fairchild
    From: Boulder
    Nov 3, 2003

    It has died down, but there was a certain amount of controversy surrounding this route at the time it was put in. An eye-witness account of the first ascent follows.

    Rob had bolted the upper face and TR'd only that upper face previously with Jim Royce. On his first lead attempt with Jim, he was not able to safely make the crux clip (the bolt at the lip), and came down. At the time, the Kloeberdanz crux was protected by old knotted webbing jammed into a crack, making the 5.12 moves out to the lip a very serious undertaking. On the first ascent a month later, with me belaying, Rob had to climb back and forth up to that clip before - 30 minutes to finally get the clip later- climbing back to the rest above the Kloeberdanz crux and lowering. Considering safety, Rob did not pull the rope. After a rest, he climbed up and through in one push, sending the climb.

    A few weeks later, a certain climber of ambition named Jimmy asked me about the ascent and climbed Guenese to put a sling on the crux bolt at the lip to reduce the protection difficulties. Jimmy then led the climb, but tried to give it a new name and dis my man Rob. Weak effort in my eyes. Later, Rob would add a bolt along the underside of the arete to protect the death moves. He led this anew (all clean and fresh) and gave it the improved moniker 'Candallegro'.

    This is an enviable testpiece with great position, and a good linkup to climbs on the upper wall via the rest of 'Guenese' to the Upper Meadow.
    By Richard M. Wright
    From: Lakewood, CO
    Nov 4, 2003

    Reminds me of Mickey Mouse Die-rect, another of Rob's routes with death potential in its original ascent. Has anyone else been through this route?
    By steve dieckhoff
    Nov 6, 2003

    -responding to the question about Mickey Mouse Die-rect.....It's a very good route with the crux being safer than getting to it. Not wanting to spoil it with too much beta I'll only say that there are different ways to do it.
    By Bart Paull
    From: Boulder, CO
    Mar 16, 2011
    rating: 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c

    Way harder than the guidebook 13a. Hard 13b, maybe even 13c. 12a to a fierce boulder problem.