Kloeberdeath/Candallegro
5.13b YDS 8a French 29 Ewbanks IX+ UIAA 30 ZA E7 6c British
Avg: 2.6 from 7 votes
Type: |
Trad, 80 ft (24 m)
Fixed Hardware
(5) |
FA: | Rob Candaleria , Mic Fairchild |
Page Views: | 3,951 total · 16/month |
Shared By: | Mic Fairchild on Jul 16, 2003 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Rockfall Access Effect & Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Per Dustin Bergman, Eldorado Canyon State Park Officer: the upper third of the West Redgarden trail and Rewritten descent trail suffered significant damage during that storm that came through a few weeks ago. Please consider choosing alternates routes lower on the trail.
Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
The roof wall area on the Redgarden Wall holds the testpiece 'Psycho', and is the steep, 80 foot, brown face capped by an obvious, 5-8 foot roof. The rock continues above the roof to the Upper Meadow of the Redgarden Wall. The roof wall is located at the base of the lower Ramp, and is best approached on the normal Redgarden Trail. This area is popular in the winter months because it can warm quickly in the sun and, protected by the overhang, is usually dry.
Locate 'Kloeberdanz' at the right edge of the overhang band, where it begins in a somewhat dirty-looking, right-facing corner beneath a striking arete formed by the edge of the roof. It is uphill from 'Touch 'n Go' and downhill of 'Guenese' and the other roof routes.
After turning the 'Kloeberdanz' roof, you immediately launch onto the arete that constitutes the end of the roof wall proper. Rob added a bolt after the first ascent to protect this strenuous section. Getting established onto the face seems to be the main crux. There is difficult climbing on the face about 40 more feet to the '[[Guenese]105748780' belay.
Locate 'Kloeberdanz' at the right edge of the overhang band, where it begins in a somewhat dirty-looking, right-facing corner beneath a striking arete formed by the edge of the roof. It is uphill from 'Touch 'n Go' and downhill of 'Guenese' and the other roof routes.
After turning the 'Kloeberdanz' roof, you immediately launch onto the arete that constitutes the end of the roof wall proper. Rob added a bolt after the first ascent to protect this strenuous section. Getting established onto the face seems to be the main crux. There is difficult climbing on the face about 40 more feet to the '[[Guenese]105748780' belay.
Protection
6-8 QDs, wires, #3 Friend. There is a good bolt at the Kloeberdanz roof, and a bolt along the underside of the arete to protect those moves onto the crux face above, which is also bolted.
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