Kloeberdanz 

...the upper pitches are worth doing.

...Dave Breashears was the first one to cross and use a heel hook. How is that for a interesting bit of trivia?

I've read Barber in some places, Wunsch in others... and someone tried to convince me that it was Breashears, but I know the story on that one a bit better- it wasn't David Breashears... although he was the one to do it statically first. That's why I didn't specify on the FA on this one- frankly, I'm not sure what to believe.

I can't believe there is even a question over who did this first ! Here's the photo from my archive of "Climbing" with Steve on an article about his first ascent. I used to go down there every week to gun for the 2-3 ascent until the "Kid" pulled the carpet from under our feet !!

I think this route is way hard. I couldn't do this move and didn't really even get close to doing it. This type of move isn't my strength, though. Fortunately, you can still lead the route by just swinging over on the bolt. My partner, a semi-famous local, solid 5.12 climber, fell off it while following, so I think the move is pretty dang hard.

The climbing above the lip is pretty dicey (but well protected) face climbing (10-) to the anchors.

We did the second and third pitches as well and I'd recommend them as a fun adventure. The second pitch is 10c and had some lichen on it and maybe a touch of water (this was a couple of years ago, but I suspect things are pretty much the same).

The third pitch is 5.9 S+. This is a great, exciting pitch that demands classic Eldo nut fiddling from semi-bad stances and a cool head.

Bill

I don't think this is a "great" route, so I can't give it two stars. This is a good route, though.

I've done this route several times, the first time in 1975 and the last in 1996. Maybe it's just my advancing age and a few extra pounds that made it feel harder, but I think that a piece of the crimper in the middle of the roof broke and is smaller than it used to be. It's definitely not as positive as it used to be.

Good idea to back up the pin after you clear the roof. Believe me.

In my opinion, the second and third pitches are the real reason to do this route, not the roof. They don't get done much and are a bit crusty in places. I think that the third pitch is a bit of a sandbag at 5.9, but you can decide that for yourself.

Other than the route of this Name in Eldo and also one in Yosemite, I believe, I can't find reference to what this word means. The one song by this title is an instrumental by Belcanto's White Out conditions LP. Can anyone shed light on the meaning?

If I can remember right in my advancing years, Kor was a "hoddy" at a masonry company named "Kloeber Mason's " (or something very close).

Got it here Tony ,"Kloberdanz Construction Company", Kor was taking odd and end jobs to supply his climbing habit and at the time he did this route, was working for them.

You mean the Mag. that's in my photo below? I've still got Climbing Nov/Dec '72; now that's a classic!

Re: Bob's and my exchange. I posted a lot of trivia to Tony that got ended up in "other comments" for some reason at the bottom of the page.

Advancing the historical discussion...I've posted the original photo of Steve Wunsch on the 1974 FFA below, next to Dave Bohn's scan from Climbing. Also, a second photo showing Jim Erickson following the crux (unsuccessfully) on the FFA.

Does anyone know why Steve Wunsch quit climbing? Near-death experience? Better to burn-out than fade away?

Kor worked for the Kloberdanz family in the '60s. They owned a brick or cement company. He told me he liked the name and used it for this route. They may still be in the Yellow Pages.

I believe Kloeberdanz is a now extinct traditional German folk dance, literally translated it means "sick dog roof dancing."

There's nothing like a little German Folk Dancing to really spice up a party!

This one can be hard to decipher and that can make a big difference. I agree with Mike Storeim's comment that this route feels much harder today than it did in the mid 70s & 80s, and perhaps the crimper holds in the middle are not as positive as they used to be. But, for me, all routes feel harder now than they did back then. So, I'm not totally sure if it's the holds or just my advancing weight & declining strength. Any other Grey Hairs out there that have done this one lately care to comment on that? Chris A?

Saying "Reach and forearms are the keys to this 3-move wonder." is an understatement. A very short, powerful reachy crux.