Klingon 5.9 R
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.9- [details] |
| FA: | Unknown (pre-1960) |
| Submitted By: | Matthew Fienup on Mar 9, 2006 |
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Diego Navarro has a crux encounter with "Klingon" ...
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Description This route pulls through the large alcove and overhang on the left-hand side of the main Gibraltar formation.
Start next to "the Nose." Climb a crack to a large alcove. The crux of the route climbs the steep face left of the corner. The corner itself is very off-width and very hard. Pull the roof on the left side for full-value or bypass the roof to the right.
The middle of the route is marked by a large ledge. A second crux is pulling up off of the ledge onto tiny face holds (5.8/5.9). From here, runout face climbing (5.6) leads to the top of the formation.
When top-roping, be very careful. The route is almost exactly 100 feet long and the base of the cliff falls away on one side.
Protection Gear (tiny to 4"). The top of the route is protected by a single bolt and either medium sized gear or a slung boulder.
Update: On July 6, 2006, the anchor bolt atop this route was replaced. The new bolt is a 13mm Fixe Triplex expansion bolt.
Simone nears the end of the crux sequence of "Klin...
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By Prezwoodz
Nov 29, 2008
| Climbed the offwidth crack portion on upper area which you list as very hard. I didn't think it was too hard. Probably 10b or so. Big cam to protect the crux but its not really to bad and I thought it was one of the more enjoyable sections of the climb pulling out through the roof. |
By Isaac T.
From: Pasadena, CA
Mar 29, 2009
| Seems a little odd to only put one bolt at the anchors no matter how bomber... Either way thank you Matthew for taking the initiative to replace many of the anchors and bolts in the area. |
By Evan1984
Nov 2, 2009
| There are ample opportunities to sling things and place gear to back up the bolt. I always bring some long pieces of webbing to setting up Tr at Gibraltar |
By Richard Shore
May 20, 2011
rating: 5.9 R
| bring a #4 camalot to protect the crux. The OW corner is a grunt, even if only a few moves long. |
By Aaron Metchik
Dec 5, 2012
| question. Why do you say when top roping be very careful because the climb is 100 feet long and cliff falls away on 1 side? Are you saying we could fall on the wrong side of the rock and be dangling too far away from the rock to get back on? |
By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Dec 6, 2012
| I think Matt means that the belaying ledge falls away BEHIND the belayer (depends on where you're belaying from). If you're not careful when lowering your partner to the ground, there could be a tumble. When climbing the route, there's no serious swing for the climber that I can remember. It's all in the vertical-to-off-vertical angle. |
By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Dec 10, 2012
| Sorry for not being more clear. As Andy indicates, when top-rope belaying from the base of the route, you could lower the climber off the end of the rope and drop them down Gibraltar Gully. |
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