The direct start begins just left of Backflip's initial, right-facing dihedral, called Bellyflop, 5.10c, in a dead end crack. Step left and faceclimb past 5 new 3/8" bolts (5.10c and a bit spicy above 3rd bolt) to a belay ledge with bolted anchors. Run the pitch out to Library Ledge and belay below Romulan Territority.
P2 - Up that route for 50' then right along a horizontal flake. Directly up a crack marked by a small pine tree then a thin but well protected right facing flake (crux) to a belay on a small foot stance.
P3 - Finish on the mostly wide but nice third pitch of Star Trek. Without the direct start, which was put up in 2001 by CMS guides, the route is 5.10a and still very good, easier then Romulan Territority (which is more like 5.10 b/c). Walk off to the east around the Bookmark Pinnacle.
Full selection with many small to midsize stoppers.
|Comments on Klingon (with direct start)
|By Guy H.|
From: Fort Collins CO
May 6, 2008
Linking the Romulan start into the Klingon finish is a great pitch. The 5.10 lieback section is straightforward, and not as hard as it looks from the ground. I think the technical crux is still shared with Romulan Territory. The endurance crux is the 40ft section of liebacking off of crisp edges at the end of the pitch. Extra sm-med nuts and cams from 0.3-1 are helpful.