Klingon (with direct start)  5.10a

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Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, Grade II Consensus:  5.10a [details] FA:  unknown Submitted By:  Anonymous Coward on Apr 12, 2002 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Season raptor closures MORE INFO >>> The following areas are closed from March 1-July 31 or until further notice: Twin Owls, Rock One, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sheep Mountain, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Lightning Rock and Checkerboard Rock are currently closed. The closures include the named rock formations and the areas extending 100 yards surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes and climber's access trails to the formation. Alligator Rock is also closed. www.nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/area_closures.htm This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

The direct start begins just left of Backflip's initial, right-facing dihedral, called Bellyflop, 5.10c, in a dead end crack. Step left and faceclimb past 5 new 3/8" bolts (5.10c and a bit spicy above 3rd bolt) to a belay ledge with bolted anchors. Run the pitch out to Library Ledge and belay below Romulan Territority.

P2 - Up that route for 50' then right along a horizontal flake. Directly up a crack marked by a small pine tree then a thin but well protected right facing flake (crux) to a belay on a small foot stance.

P3 - Finish on the mostly wide but nice third pitch of Star Trek. Without the direct start, which was put up in 2001 by CMS guides, the route is 5.10a and still very good, easier then Romulan Territority (which is more like 5.10 b/c). Walk off to the east around the Bookmark Pinnacle.

Protection 

Full selection with many small to midsize stoppers.