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 ADVANCED
Farmington Crag
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
137 lbs of Fury T 
Basket Case TR 
Batman Surprise TR 
Butt Crack T 
Cool Air T,TR 
Era of Tara, The T 
Every woman has her charm. TR 
Humble Beginnings T 
Klingon Arete TR 
Nano Pitch TR 
Repent Now or Die TR 
Ryan in a Bikini T,S 
Suck it Up Princess S 
Unsorted Routes:

Klingon Arete 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 337
Submitted By: spencerparkin on Jun 4, 2010

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The Klingong Arete!

Description 

Remember the Star Trek: The Next Generation episode where Worf sustains a spinal injury and needs a new spine? Well, this ridge reminded me of that episode, and so that's why I'm calling it the Klingon Arete. The ridge has some Klingon spinal features, especially near the top.

This ridge appears to have a number of interesting exits near the top. I took the easiest one. The others looked interesting as they were a bit over-hanging.

Location 

This is the vertical ridge on the South East corner of the crag.

Protection 

There is no official anchor for this climb. As the pictures will show, I used the anchors for Batman Surprise, and then used another anchor near the top of the climb as a direcitional. It also acted as a backup anchor, which is good too, because this also reduced any additional stretch added to the system between the primary and secondary anchors.

My setup was for a fixed line, so I'm not sure how you could easily top-rope this climb. I'm sure it could be lead on gear as a trad-climb. There appeared to be many opportunities to place gear along the way.


Photos of Klingon Arete Slideshow Add Photo
Here's a close-up view of the top.
Here's a close-up view of the top.
This is the anchor I used for the climb as a directional/backup.  I could have just used this anchor, but I was not completely confident in my anchor building skills. <br /> <br />Though not obviouse from the picture, the rope does run cleanly through that crack.
This is the anchor I used for the climb as a direc...

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