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 more Dirtbag Deals
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Black is Beautiful 
Dancing on Stones 
Earthship (aka Garbage Warrior) 
Easy Rider Crack 
Forever Jung 
Hopper's Hangover 
Klein's Corner 
Negra Bonita (Black Beauty) 
Stinky Finger 
Tijerina 
Utopian Vistas (var.) 

Klein's Corner 

5.9

   
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Type: Sport, 80 feet
Consensus: 5.9 [details]
FA: Joel Tinl & Mike Howard
New Route: Yes
Submitted By: Mike Howard on May 25, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Description 

Start in the same right facing corner as Tijerina and then move left after the fourth bolt (long runner). Climb the dihedral and make crux moves through the roof. Excellent rock, continuous moves. Rick Klein was one of the founders of the New Buffalo Commune and the back-to-the-land movement in 1960s Taos and now is a fixture in the Jenny Vincent Trio.


Location 

Utopia...Left of Hopper's Hangover


Protection 

9 bolts and chain anchor



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By George Perkins
From: Los Alamos, NM
Dec 6, 2008
rating: 5.9

#13 in this beta photo
Fun climb- but don't come near this if you're one of those trad climbers who gets riled up about bolts anywhere near cam and nut placements.

By Mike Howard
Administrator
Jun 20, 2011

Lead on gear 6/19/11. 5.9 R without bolts using tricky small pocket horizontals and a few hollow blocks. Needed the 5th bolt to protect traverse...if not would be a serious fall. A few Runners useful for rope drag. Not recommended for 5.9 leader.