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Elliott Peak
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Kitty Hawk 

Kitty Hawk 

WI5

   
Type:  Ice, Alpine, 3 pitches, 500', Grade III
Consensus: WI5 [details]
FA: David Thompson, 1980
Season: winter
Page Views: 277
Submitted By: Kris Gorny on May 20, 2013

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Dave Rone going up WI4 pitch.

Description 

Classic climb in a very cool location and with beautiful views of Abrahams Lake. The climb consists of the 60m WI4 pitch followed by a 50m steep and sustained WI5 pillar. The third pitch is a 30m WI3 with a bolt station on top (to climbers right). First ascent of Kitty Hawk was accomplished in 1980 as a roped solo following several attempts which reportedly involved a giant whipper, rescue, and 26 stitches.

Location 

From Saskatchewan Crossing drive ~38km along Dave Thompson Highway (Hwy 11). The climb will be to your left (north) and is easily recognizable from the highway (see beta picture). Park in an obvious pull out in front of the climb.

To reach the climb head straight towards it through the woods. Once through the woods locate the gully leading to the base of the ice. The gully, which is initially wide (we chose the right bank to ascend), quickly narrows and fills with WI2-3 ice steps. When we did it, the icy section was filled with loose deep snow and we had to wade through waist deep. In lean snow conditions it may be necessary to pitch it out.

Protection 

Ice screws


Photos of Kitty Hawk Slideshow Add Photo
Kitty Hawk from up close.
Kitty Hawk from up close.
Kitty Hawk from Dave Thompson Highway.
Kitty Hawk from Dave Thompson Highway.
Wading through deep snow in the approach gully.
Wading through deep snow in the approach gully.
Spectacular WI5 pillar. Photo: Dave Rone.
Spectacular WI5 pillar. Photo: Dave Rone.
Abrahams Lake from Kitty Hawk.
Abrahams Lake from Kitty Hawk.

Comments on Kitty Hawk Add Comment
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By RKM
From: Alpine, Utah
Mar 5, 2014

This is an unbelievably cool and huge climb. No one ever on it. If this climb were in Provo Canyon, Ouray or close to Vail, it would be climbed several times a day during season.

It would also be the best climb by far in either area. Bigger and better than Ames Ice Hose and almost the equivalent of Bridalveil in Telluride.

It is a long hour plus hike - but just look at these pictures taken by Kris Gorny and Dave Rone.
By Kris Gorny
Administrator
Mar 6, 2014

Hey RKM, thanks for the kind words! Beautiful climb for sure. I actually kinda liked not having many people there (none when we climbed it). Adds to the serene feeling of being in the middle of nowhere on unreal ice.