|Type:||Trad, 4 pitches, 500'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]|
|FA:||Herb Laeger, Richard Leversee. 1989|
|Season:||Aug, Sep, Oct|
|Submitted By:||limpingcrab on Nov 14, 2012|
|Always check road conditions and peregrine closures MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on Kitty From Hell||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By 1Eric Rhicard
Feb 14, 2013
Herb Laeger and I did this eons ago along with a number of other routes in the area. Love that place.
Eric Rhicard. Note spelling.
By Chris I
From: Fresno, CA
Sep 16, 2013
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
|This route is outstanding. Sustained and varied climbing, good pro (until some sections of P4), and total solitude. The rack recommendation here is spot on, minus the 5. My buddy and I had 1 BD 4 and a BD 5 and found out the hard way that we needed 2 4's and no 5. Pitch 3 is about 40-50 of #3 and #4 sized crack, so make sure you have a couple of each. Despite a little lichen here and there, the quality of this route was surprising. The descent is via two bolted rappels (maybe three with a 60m, we had a 70m), the first one starting right next to the summit registry and the last one from a ledge on the back side of the formation.|
By 1Eric Rhicard
Oct 14, 2015
These are my notes almost verbatim on this route. Herb and I did this in 1987. I lead pitches 1,2 and 4. Herb lead #3.
1) Start in a left facing corner and follow the crack that splits the overhanging block 10c/d. Belay on ledge.
2) Climb up 10 ft. to bulge then head left around corner and up crack 10d to the quartz dike. Belay in the right crack.c
3) Head up to the wide crack which can be avoided by climbing around it at 10c. It becomes a fist then a fantastic hand crack. Follow this until you can step right on ledges and belay at bottom of lower angle cracks that head up and right.
4)The fourth pitch follows the cracks a long way to the top. Breaking this pitch up might reduce rope drag.
A note on the 3rd pitch: the rock is a little funky and pro a bit sparse getting around the offwidth. It is however a pretty exciting climb and well worth doing for the experienced climber.