Kitty From Hell  5.10d

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Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 500 feet Consensus:  5.10d [details] FA:  Herb Laeger, Richard Leversee. 1989 Season:  Aug, Sep, Oct Submitted By:  limpingcrab on Nov 14, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: Something like that. I hope Dave Hickey will forg...

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Perigrine Falcon Closures MORE INFO >>> This area is often closed from springtime until early August for nesting. Contact the Hume Lake ranger district of the Sequoia National Forest for seasonal closures. 559-338-2251 This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

If you happen to be looking for an excellent, exposed and interesting crack climb at chimney rocks, look no further! Everything from fingers to OW with a funny cliffhanger finish, but beware, it's hard for 10d.

P1: Head up to the crack in the block, then climb from fingers to hands to off-width until you reach a ledge with a single bolt that can be backed up with small nuts (10c).

P2: Climb above the bolt and traverse left around the corner until you're at a finger crack. This part is super exposed, don't look down! Follow the finger crack up and eventually exit right into an alcove with large crystals (10d+).

P3: Climb up out of the crystal chimney into an OW. The OW turns into a great hand crack for a while and eventually you head right around the corner until you reach a decent belay ledge (10b)

P4: Follow the obvious crack system up and right to a corner where you follow the corner up, over a chockstone (use cliffhanger hang for bonus poins), and belay once you can see over the other side (5.9).

Location 

Go down the loose gully between chimney spire and chimney rock until you see a very obvious clean crack in a block low on the spire.

Protection 

Doubles to #4, and I think we had a #5 along. Set of nuts.