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NOTE: Number 4 on the topo. This is a great moderate hand crack (actually the 2nd pitch of Kitchen's Delight) that literally eats medium cams - and your hands if you don't tape up! Step across the void to the right (facing the rock) from the belay station and jam up the crack.
Take Camalots from #0.75 to #3.5, 2 each of #0.75, #1 and #2, a full range of wires and some extra 24" slings. The belay is on gear at the back of a large depression over the top. Arrange a 'remote' belay with an extra long length of your rope from your placements. This way you can not only see your second, but avoid big time rope drag. A 60 M rope is recommended. Its two rap stations to the bottom as indicated on the topo.
|By Danny Inman|
Jul 24, 2006
Somewhat similar to NE cutoff, except pitch two is a hand crack. Worthwhile route. I felt the grade of Kitchens to be equivalent to that of NE cutoff.
|By Avery N|
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 9, 2009
I think the description above takes the easier variation on the second pitch (Low Road, 5.2 per Heel and Toe).
First pitch -- can't say first-hand (we started with Croissant), but it does begin on an obvious crack from behind the huge boulder.
For the second pitch (Kitchen's Delight, not the variation listed above). Step just right of the belay. Head up the offwidth 15' to a roof. Traverse right under the roof (crux, mostly small cams) until you hit the beautiful (but easy) vertical hand/fist crack. Take this to the top. 2 raps, the lower of which is close to 30m.
Harper and Kelman list this as 7+, which I (surprisingly) found pretty accurate.
|By Brett Brotherton|
From: Arvada, CO
Jun 5, 2010
Did this climb when it was windy, boy was that a interesting. I was very glad not be leading as once up the wall we were experiencing 60+ MPH gusts and probably 40 MPH sustained!
From: Lyons, CO
Jul 6, 2011
I found the roof traverse to be the distinct crux, the grade was accurate, but protection is awkward to place; 5.7+ PG.
|By Christina kalb|
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 7, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b
As of this writing, the bolts on the top of pitch 1 are 1/4 inch. While they are in good condition still, be wary....