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The Optimator
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Kitchen Sink 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a [details]
Page Views: 543
Submitted By: Steven Lucarelli on Apr 4, 2011
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Kitchen Sink is a perfect name for this route as you'll encounter everything from tips to offwidth by the time you get to the anchor. Start by stemming up two parallel offset cracks with good finger locks and gear in the left crack. Take advantage of a rest ledge to the right if you want and then continue up a fist crack behind a flake. There is also a tips crack that leads straight up from the ledge and merges with the fist crack after about 10' but it looked harder.

A short easy offwidth section leads to a final tight right facing corner. A blue alien size crack and occational openings in the corner provide adequate places for pro but this might be the mental crux for some.


This route is just left of Charlie's Pillar and starts up parallel offset cracks, the left is big enough for fingers and the right is more of a seam.


Bring two each from Blue Aliens to #4 Camalots with an extra .4 Camalot. There are two bolts at the anchor but the upper bolt could use a 1' length of chain.

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By D-Storm
Oct 17, 2012

I remember the finish being interesting.

By slim
Apr 1, 2013
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

superb route and perfectly named, as mentioned above. steven's rack suggestion looks pretty bold. i would recommend a bunch of pieces in the thin fingers to fingers sizes. it seems like there is always a finger crack available. pretty long route that is fairly strenuous, despite having a lot of rests.