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By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Apr 24, 2006
There is a semi-independent spire, about 150-200' tall 'behind' the Kissing Couple a few meters. This is the face opposite of the Long Dong Wall when standing at the base. On this face, and just behind Long Dong Wall, there is a splitter fist crack running the entire height, interrupted only by some brief sections of what appears to be squeeze chimney. This appears to be unclimbed. As well, up and left from there above a 80' shallow corner of junky rock there is a very nice crack running to the top.
Does anybody know anything about these lines? Have they been climbed?
If not, what is the present local law and ethic on a drilled bolt or pin, should the chimney present a significant risk at a significant difficulty- I.E. required to keep the route from being X-rated?
Thanks in advance for your input.
By Chris Weidner
Apr 24, 2006
Hey Tony, I believe the spire you are talking about is called Crack Of Noon Tower, and was first climbed by James Stover and Mac Lewis a couple years ago. The chimney on the right when viewed from the base of Long Dong Wall is called "Right Route" 5.11. The left crack system is called "Crack Of Noon Route" 5.10, and it is climbed in one long pitch.
Good to see you at Indian Creek a few weeks ago!
Aug 4, 2006
The Colorado National Monument has adopted a current policy of banning the establishment of all new fixed anchors, this doesn't mean it does not happen, but be warned. It could mean serious trouble with "THE FEDS". However, there is a new climbing ranger in town, and I have heard that he is at least open to discussion. Hopefully, as a community, we can impress upon him that the climbing here is really good, but there are serious safety issues with getting down off of some of these things, due to the nature of the rock. There are some really old ratty anchors that need fixing and the current reigning authorities are just not taking care of business.
As far as placing bolts on existing routes ---- I think the consensus is in mate' -- without the expressed consent of the FA party, it just not a cool thing to do. (I will admit sometimes it is hard to tell where people have been out here.) --- Someone's habenaro salsa; is someone else's strawberry cheesecake; were are all just different that way! If you want to drill do your best to make sure it is an FA. Anchors are OK, but I would shy away from ladders (unless they link free climbing systems). But thanks for asking, just by doing so shows a respect for a culture far older than we are. Some of these towers were the first ones in the desert to be climbed by the old guard!