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Squat Rock
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Higher Education S 
Jelly Omelet S 
Kirk's Corner T 
Lichen or Not T 
Misfit Kids T 
Miss Conception T 
Sex Favor TR 
Slimy Slit T 
Smut Puppy S 
Sticky Fingers T 
Temporary Clemency T,S,TR 
Urban Development T 

Kirk's Corner 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Kirk Miller and Ken Trout in the late '70s
Page Views: 1,309
Submitted By: Darin Lang on Aug 5, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (19)
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Chris Parks tops out on the quality jams of Kirk's...

Closed (private property)

Description 

Excellent, sustained vertical hand crack in a dihedral right of the Squat Rock summit. Approach as for Lichen or not, and then go up and right to the first alcove past the buttress directly below the summit block. Reminiscent of the first pitch of Friday the 13th (Vedauwoo), although slightly steeper and not as clean as the latter climb.

10 feet of easy ground leads to sustained hand jams and a short thin hands/lieback (crux) to a small ledge. Lieback or stem your way through the pod above ( many good small gear placements) to a large sandy ledge where a good gear anchor can be set up. Easy walkoff straight back and then right.

Protection 

Standard rack plus a couple of medium hexes.


Photos of Kirk's Corner Slideshow Add Photo
It's short but sweet!
It's short but sweet!
Looking down from the belay on Kirk's Corner.
Looking down from the belay on Kirk's Corner.
great climb.
great climb.

Comments on Kirk's Corner Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Feb 16, 2006
By Joe Keyser
From: Scottsdale, AZ
Apr 22, 2002

An extra .75, and #1 cam (or equivalent) would be nice to have on this crack, and a few others at the crag. I led Kirk's Corner on [Saturday] with one of each of these cams, and thought it would have been nice to have at least one more in that size range...
By Ben Mottinger
Founding Father
Oct 13, 2002
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

For the crag, it's 3 stars, even though it's short.

Good rests between the hard spots keeps the grade lower.
By Shane Zentner
From: Colorado
Oct 21, 2002

Extra #1 and #2 Camalot would be helpful. I did not see an anchor at the top.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Nov 11, 2002

You give this a 5.8+ and say "no way it is a 5.9" ??? Come on, Ben, doesn't the + at the end of the 5.8 grade mean you think it is awful close to a 5.9? Seems like splitting hairs to call it 5.8+ but say "no way" it is 5.9.

Just a though on how strongly your language might be interpreted.
By Hill
Jan 23, 2003

There are shiny new bolts at the top of this one, easily accessible for setting up a top rope if so desired.
By Tulio Miller
Jan 23, 2003

Read my profile and you'll see that I live in the Conifer area. Sorry Ben, but those bolts will be gone before you can get to them.It already was convenient to set a TR on this cimb.
By Hill
Feb 10, 2003

Me and my big mouth! I guess I'll have to keep any discovery of new bolts in the Platte as a personal note only. It seems to me that Squat Rock is a great place for first time crack climbers, so what's wrong with making it accesible to someone without a rack? Hey Tulio, maybe these bolts would have provided the practice for people aspiring to get on the Center Route, thus reducing your frustration over there.
By TBD
Jun 2, 2003

Great route. I live in Conifer as well, I hope the bolts don't get chopped. While their placement can be debated, they aren't without worth. The damage has been done, don't make it worse.
By John McNamee
Administrator
From: Littleton, CO
Aug 9, 2003

Outstanding three star route. A must do lead. Just wish it was longer . . . Unable to locate the above mentioned bolts.
By Matt Chan
From: Boulder
Sep 6, 2005
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Hubbel's guidebook recommends bringing along extra 3"-4" cams - I didn't place anything in that range. A SR to a #2 Camalot will work just fine. A couple of absolutely bomber nut placements on the left of the crack at the start allow you to carry single cams to a #2.
By Matt Nelson
From: Pueblo, CO
Jan 24, 2006
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Great route, one of my SPlatte favorites... To bad it isn't longer
By Andrew
From: Lakewood
Feb 16, 2006

Seemed like it was more deserving of the 5.9 rating then lichen or not, just because (IMO) the crux moves were more committing. Didn't see any bolts and didn't see any no trespassing signs.
By Buff Johnson
Feb 16, 2006
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Another good natural line (is there a bad one around here?)! People w/ small feet could find this a soft .9; For me .9+. good locks & crack moves (there's a great hex placement also). Don't count on bolts to be here for the anchor; there is a good natural seam for temp pro (handsized cams ok) & a walkoff. No point in debating a bolt issue, locals manage this area.