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Memorial Wall
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Kirk Arens Arête 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Steve Fettke & Aaron Rough
Page Views: 1,036
Submitted By: Aron Quiter on Oct 14, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (29)
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BETA PHOTO: 2nd bolted line from left topo w/new bolts

Description 

This route climbs up from the previously existing plaque on the Memorial Wall. Climb up the large blocks and jugs over an overhanging section to the juggy slab above. Sustained, but not too tough for a 5.9 climber.

This is second route from the left on the Memorial wall.

Protection 

3 bolts to a 3 bolt top anchor.


Comments on Kirk Arens Arête Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Feb 24, 2016
By mattymck
From: Rocklin, Ca
Apr 20, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

The first bolt is still missing as of this posting. Would make for a bit of a spicy on-sight, especially if you are not use to the climbing in the Quarry or not very comfortable on-sighting at least a few grades higher. Fun moves though.
By Rough
Apr 27, 2013

FA is Aaron Rough and Steve... Sorry I don't remember his last name!
By Nukem
From: Fort Lauderdale, Florida
Apr 29, 2013

all bolts are back on
By Justin Johnsen
Administrator
Apr 29, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Thanks Aaron and Brian for the new hardware, it made the Memorial Wall shade a fun surprise this weekend.
By GizzardJones
From: Sacramento,CA
Feb 23, 2016

hi Gang, I tried to screw the 1st bolt back on. It literally came out after I lead the route and lowered down to clean the draws and the 1st bolt was wobbling soo bad w the draw and lowering tension, after literally a few turns it came right out. I have the bolt & hanger still and will gladly mail to anyone who can help fix it and of course I will also gladly come out and help fix the route too.


Thanks
Gizzard

Rock Climbing Photo: 1st bolt from Kirk Arens Arete
1st bolt from Kirk Arens Arete


Rock Climbing Photo: Missing 1st bolt of Kirk Arens Arete
Missing 1st bolt of Kirk Arens Arete


Rock Climbing Photo: 1st bolt missing from Kirk Arens Arete
1st bolt missing from Kirk Arens Arete
By Chasing Choss
From: Granite Bay, California
Feb 24, 2016

whoa.. scary check with aaron to see if he is okay with someone else fixing it!
By Salamanizer
Administrator
From: Vacaville Ca.
Feb 24, 2016

Aarons a solid dude, he's not going to get upset with someone else fixing a bolt on one of his routes, nor would anyone else I have ever met who puts routes up. Just have a clue of what you're doing or ask someone to help you who does. Sounds to me like the bolt just worked itself loose and needs to be re-tightened. You should have just left it in place and hand tightened it instead of totally removing the bolt. A hand tightened bolt is better than a missing one and can be "re-tightened" by anyone climbing the route until it can be properly snugged up with a wrench.
By GizzardJones
From: Sacramento,CA
Feb 24, 2016

hi Gang,
thanks for the feedback. I tried to hand tighten it 1st, then when back with my nut tool to try and screw it down even more. The rock around the bolt does not work well for my nut tool and was hard to get any rotations on it. :( I am not a expert route setter or a bolt placement guy and have sooooo much respect for all FA parties and folks who are stewards of the area. I am into the history and ethics of the area and apologize if anyone feels It was bad for me to remove this bolt.
I am going back Thursday 2.25.2016 with a proper tool to tighten it back down and will report back on my progress. If anyone would like to help or offer better suggestions I am 100000% open.

My decision to take the bolt/hanger was out of fear of someone blowing it and the bolt goes. It literally came out after a few wobbly turns. Thanks for discussing this local issue, appreciate it greatly.
Love these mtns we have and the climbs we are able to do.

Peace
Gizzard
By Rough
Feb 24, 2016

Gizzard, 1st bolts have a tendency to get torque constantly due to people standing far away from the wall while belaying or moving around while the belayer has the leader under tension or from short high impact falls on the first bolt. The result of this is a slow loosening of the bolt stud from the wedge cone by counter rotation. You literally unscrewed it defeating its mechanical purpose.

In the future, you are better off just hand tightening a few turns and letting the internet know then completely loosening / removing it. The concern now is that if you don't "straight shot" the nut when you try to "fix it", you will inadvertently rotate the wedge nut that is in the bottom of that hole in a manner that won't allow the stud to ever be screwed back in.

The other concern is that you may "think" you got it in the nut when in reality you are just screwing the threads of the stud into a constriction of the rock or metal expansion sleeve. Think about it like a hole just slightly smaller than the diameter of the stud. You can "screw" the bolt into it and it will feel like it it is snug when in reality a direct outward pull will show a VERY low pull out strength since it is the thin metal flanges of the threads holding the bolt into the rock/metal sleeve not the actual expansion nut and sleeve.

When you are inserting the stud back into the hole, do not push aggressively or try to pound it in in any way. Slide the stud in the hole and if it gets hung up, slowly and lightly turn the bolt clockwise to see if that can get you passed the constriction. You should hit the nut with approximately 1/2" of stud out of the hole based upon the picture you posted above. Notice the length of rock dust on the stud which shows it was most probably the portion that screwed into the wedge nut. Once you think you are at the nut, start tightening it down. It should go easy then get very rapidly extremely hard to tighten. DON'T over-tighten it as that will also weaken the bolt. You want the relative tightness of the bolt to prevent hand turning the hex head in any capacity, but you also don't want to tighten to the point that you can't turn it tighter with all of your weight / force, as that means you are precariously close to the sheering point for the hex head. It is a balance, hence why appealing to someone more experienced in relation to a suspect bolt is always the best bet.

Let us know how it goes! I am not against someone else replacing it as I have already replaced that bolt twice due to the chopping of the routes during the time when the Quarry was off limits to climbers!
By GizzardJones
From: Sacramento,CA
Feb 24, 2016

Thanks Rough,
Really appreciate your response and detailed descriptions.
hmmmm..... anyone want to meet up tomorrow and help?
this would be my 1st time and don't want to mess it up for future folks. Soo..i think it might be smart for me to wait till I have a "mentor" help out.
any takers? ha... I have other "projects" around the hills waiting for some love.

Peace
Gizzard

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