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Kingston Crag
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Jester Wall 
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Kingston Crag 


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Administrators: Dom, Ian Lingley, Peter Spindloe, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Ian Lingley on Jul 7, 2011

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FFA of Jester in 2009

Description 

This newly developed sport cliff looks over the Bates Lake located on the Kingston peninsula. This is a very convenient crag having only a 5 min approach, and the majority of the climbs can be accessed from above for easy top rope setup.
The rock quality is pretty good for being rhyolite and basalt there are some loose rocks/pebbles wearing a helmet is strongly recommended.
The cliff gets direct sunlight from early morning to mid afternoon. Located on the Lake road just 5 min from the gondola point ferry.


Getting There 

From highway # 1 take the Gondola Point exit (between Hampton and Saint John). After crossing the Gondola Point ferry turn right onto highway 845. Stay on this road for about 3 kilometers and then turn left onto the Lake Road. About a kilometer up the Lake Road you should see a cliff on your left through the trees. Park in the driveway on the left after house #45 (hard to see, drive slow).

OR – Same directions as Hampton Marsh, but instead of turning down Norton Shore Road, stay on the Pickwocket….to the village of Kingston – (about 10/15 minutes) – once you pass the Irving & Church, take the next left (Lake Road)….about 1 km up, you’ll see an overgrown driveway with a boulder in the middle. Park here…
GPS coordinates are 45 29.516’ 065 58.935’.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Kingston Crag:
Monster's Garden   5.6     Sport, 35 feet   Jester Wall
Medusa   5.7     Sport, 80 feet   Main wall
Kareoke   5.8     Sport, 45 feet   Jester Wall
The French Connection   5.9     Sport, 90 feet   Jester Wall
Cracktacular   5.9 PG13     Trad, 60 feet   Queen Wall
Nothing But Air   5.9     Sport, 70 feet   Jester Wall
Err To the Throne   5.9     Sport, 50 feet   Jester Wall
Odysseus   5.9     Sport, 80 feet   Main wall
One Vision   5.10b/c     Sport, 30 feet   Queen Wall
Veni, Vidi, Vici   5.11a     Sport, 25 feet   King Wall
Cleopatra   5.11a     Sport, 80 feet   Main wall
Jester   5.11a     Sport, 50 feet   Jester Wall
Dressed For Success   5.11b     Sport, 40 feet   Queen Wall
Chicken Little   5.11c     Sport, 60 feet   Jester Wall
Like White on Rice   5.12a     Sport, 20 feet   King Wall
Solidara   5.12b     Sport, 40 feet   Queen Wall
Browse More Classics in Kingston Crag

Featured Route For Kingston Crag
Like White on Rice 12a

Like White on Rice 5.12a  International : Canada : ... : King Wall
Start just left of the center of the wall on a hueco like hold, then start cranking. This is a steep crimp fest following a flake like feature. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in International