Leading Kingsnake at Winslow Wall. This route see...
This is a long pitch with lots of hands, the pro is varied since the crack constricts often. The rock quality is good as Red Rocks, nearing Wingate. I think the belayer should be at the highest ledge to reduce rope drag but with runners and a runout, could be belayed from the ground.
As you rap into WW, this is the long corner just upstream on the west wall.
We got to the chains at the base of Kingsnake and Hanging Judge by going up the far right corner, then traversing back left. From those chains it took a full 70m rope to do the route and lower back down. I had 3 sets of camalots from .5 to 3 and still ran out of gear. We first attempted in the evening, and I ended up lowering down from about 2/3's of the way up when I heard what sounded like many bats from inside the crack. I came back the next morning and was barely able to hear their squeaks, so I wasn't too scared to shove my hands in the crack.
Lead first to 80' . Anchor with large cams 4s . Nestor finished. terrific sandstone but moves felt like Bonnies Roof in Gunks. CM
By Tradoholic Jun 25, 2012 rating: 5.95c17VI17HVS 5a
Sucks up a ton of gear but doubles to C4 #3 will do fine. I would give it four stars but rock quality deteriorates towards the top.
By JRivers From: Flagstaff, Arizona 4 days ago rating: 5.9+5c17VI17E1 5a
This route can be done with a 60m. The ends of the rope are 4 feet above the chains but with a little rope stretch will get you right to them. Also doubles .5-3 is just the right amount of gear, as long as you don't place it all down low, save some big pieces for the top. On top of that there is a bat cave inside of Hanging Judge, we literally watched 1000's of bats pour out of that tiny crack as we were hiking out.