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2 - King
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King's Arete 

YDS: 5.12c/d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Eric Fazio-Rhicard, Jim Scott - 2008
Page Views: 878
Submitted By: Luke Bertelsen on Sep 13, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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there are a few pretty tenuous moves

Description 

What a stellar line! Great position, exposure, and fun moves up the green lichened arete of the King formation. The minimal hassle of a short approach pitch might deter some climbers, but it is totally worth it.


Location 

Pretty easy to find this by just looking up and finding the striking green arete on the left side of the King formation. Climb the approach pitch to a set of anchors on a sizable ledge. The climb is straight up the arete from the ledge.


Protection 

5 bolts + anchors - 5.11- approach pitch to ledge
8 bolts + anchors



Photos of King's Arete Slideshow Add Photo
Mid Crux
Mid Crux
Ryan on the initial crux
Ryan on the initial crux
coming into the first real crux
coming into the first real crux
Comments on King's Arete Add Comment
Show which comments
By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
Sep 13, 2012

With a 70m, you clip the anchor on the ledge then the first bolt (or two?) on the arete, then downclimb and unclip from that anchor. Something like that, I forget the exact details.

Then you can do it as one pitch from the ground. A lot more comfortable for the belayer too as most people will whip many times figuring out the sequences.

By Luke Bertelsen
Sep 14, 2012

A 60M rope works with rope left to spare. We just put a long sling on the anchor at the ledge then went straight into the climb. We didn't have any issues for rope drag over the ledge.

By 1Eric Rhicard
Apr 11, 2013
rating: 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c

I heard folks are climbing out right to avoid the crux of this climb making it more 12 than 13-. I pretty much went straight up then right to a big jug when we did it. This may be because I love aretes and had tunnel vision and missed an easier way through that section.

By RyanJohnson
From: Tucson, Arizona
Apr 15, 2013
rating: 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b

It is a bit disappointing that between bolts 5 and 6 you can either take the original finish straight up, which involves a bit of small hold technical trickery, or move right 3 feet and take the trivial jug haul.

This is characteristically a 'choose your own adventure' section then, either the fun way, or the easy way.

By Luke Bertelsen
Jun 7, 2013

Having been on several Lemmon routes over the last few months in this range I agree that this one doesn't quite hit the .13 range. Regarding the two methods, the work around out right versus going straight up stares you right in the face, is not way off the bolt line, and has chalk all over it. You would have to make yourself go straight up the arete which is harder, but not the crux IMO. This is still a great route and well worth checking out.

By dah3586
From: Tucson, AZ
Jun 10, 2013

Wanted to try this for a long time, got some pretty sweet pictures of Ryan ______ who climbs with Dominic, posted on this page. Anyhow, we unfortunately lost interest because after all the hype of it being 13 it felt rather disappointing, though not necessarily easy heading out right. Eric I think your tunnel vision is pretty awesome cause that line you picked is so f-ing hard compared to the right hand method - so good someone needs to pull that roof off so you're forced to go direct. Also dominic hates crimping, so he'd never go back to try it. Oh well. Sweet climb though.

By dah3586
From: Tucson, AZ
Jun 15, 2013

Ryan halfway through the crux
Ryan halfway through the crux