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Kingpin 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
FA: Louie Anderson, 2006
Season: all
Page Views: 1,617
Submitted By: Steve Shiflett on Oct 10, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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It is a bit overhung haha.

Open, with restrictions: Park on the street MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Hard crimping and an early crux right off the ground. The climbing remains sustained up to the first roof and the second crux. The most technical part of the climb is working up to and clipping the permenant chain draw, and involves a insecure finger lock. Then two more bolts of sustained climbing to the anchors. Probably the best and hardest 13a's at the quarry.

Location 

Located in the slide zone just left of the easy routes at the far right. Located right in front of the bench and climbs straight through the steep, blocky roofs.

Protection 

11 bolts to ring anchors


Photos of Kingpin Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: 2-18-12
2-18-12
Rock Climbing Photo: 2-18-12
2-18-12
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbing through the clouds.
Climbing through the clouds.
Rock Climbing Photo: 2-18-12
2-18-12
Rock Climbing Photo: Mike crushing the lower section
Mike crushing the lower section
Rock Climbing Photo: 2-18-12
2-18-12
Rock Climbing Photo: Mike crimping hard
Mike crimping hard
Rock Climbing Photo: I think he was happy to have pulled all of the mov...
I think he was happy to have pulled all of the mov...

Comments on Kingpin Add Comment
Show which comments
By Alain Aleksandro De la Tejera
From: Riverside, Ca
Nov 17, 2013

Those familiar with the route recognize the crux located just above the finger-crack in the center of the route. A hold near the top has broken off, making the new crux higher up above the chain-draw. Its funky and not so obvious, making the climb much more sustained than before. Those with a longer reach should have no problem with the center-crux, yet may have a great time unlocking the new crux near the top. A great route that I encourage everyone to try.
By John Ericson
From: Oceanside, CA
Nov 25, 2014

Great route! The clipping finger lock felt very secure for me. But that is how it goes with cracks, everything comes down to finger size.

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