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Kingpin 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, TR, Chipped, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Nate Brown, Calder Stratford, TDA??? 98 or 99
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 626
Submitted By: Nate Brown on Jul 14, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Belaying from the top of the first pitch

Description 

Yesssss, more choss

Location 

Bowling Alley

Protection 

draws


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By ZachBradford
Sep 3, 2009

Ascends east facing slab on the main wall through 8 bolts to chain anchors. 5.8+ "Crux" at the second bolt the rest of the climb is mostly 5.7. This route may be considered a Cedar classic.

  • *NEVER climb the lower pitch with another party above you. They will be pitching choss off the top.**

Optional second pitch- 5.9
Continue past the chain anchors up slab for 3-4 bolts. You then meet a vertical face. Prepare your self for some serious choss the higher you go. Pass 3 bolts ending on a nice ledge with a anchor that will hold but must be replaced. (May have been replaced July 09?)

I enjoy the pitch due to the view and exposure but if choss scares you then stay clear of this pitch. A helmet for your belayer is a good idea.
By Jared R
Oct 7, 2009
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

2nd pitch rappel anchors for King Pin and Direct Route need to be replaced. They are really bad. There is one bomber bolt and 2 scary cemented pins. Half of the cement has eroded out of the holes leaving about an inch or more of the pin exposed. SCARY! The pitch is way fun though.
By Jared R
Oct 16, 2009
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

Scott Greenhalgh put up the second pitch solo, with a hand drill. Nice work Scott.
By the professor
Oct 30, 2013

In addition to choss up high, it's 20-25 feet from the last bolt to the anchors on the second pitch. As of last week, those anchors are still poor. On the bright side, there is only one move of 5.9 and it is close to a good bolt.
By James Wieman
From: Southern Utah
Nov 10, 2013

WARNING. Bad anchors on top of the second pitch. I pulled out one of the older ones with little more than a tug yesterday. Two bolts remain at the top. But only one looks solid, with the other looking pretty sketchy.