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The Nappy Dugout
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Drunken Monkey 
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Mr. Cranky Pants 
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YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX British: E6 6b

Type: Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Mike Downing
Page Views: 844
Submitted By: Pinklebear on Dec 11, 2001
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MNH on Kingfisher

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Kingfisher is a lone, quiet route downstream and right of the Nappy Dugout, just across the gully from the dirt cone where PMS and Ivory Tower ascend. It climbs directly up the center of a cool, rectangular face capped by a small roof and a Rifle-special dark brown headwall.

The first clip is hard, so you may want to stick clip it. Crimp your way up the ever-steepening face to a wild series of karate chop moves through the bulge.

Perhaps the least-traveled good route of its grade at Rifle.


10 quickdraws.

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Making the second clip.
Making the second clip.
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By melissa lipani
Aug 21, 2004

A beautiful climb offering some peace from the scene at Rifle. Nice technical, balancey climbing for the first 2/3rds on sharpish crimps, followed by really cool bulge moves. One of my favorites in the park, a must do for the grade. In the fall, this is one of the prettiest climbs due to lots of golden colored aspen trees around it.

From: Eldorado Springs, CO
Jul 8, 2005
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX E6 6b

High quality route. If Kingfisher were located in most other climbing areas, especially Boulder Canyon, it would be an instant classic.

By Aeon Aki
Sep 2, 2008

Someone told me a hold broke on this route and it is now harder. This was the first time I'd been on it so I don't know for sure, but it certainly felt tough.

By Jeremy H
Sep 17, 2008

I agree something must have broken. There is a large chalky block on the ground. Seems hard for the grade, and not that fun. You can see a large undercling jug in the bulge in the picture above that is no longer there.