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Colorado Northeast Ridge 
Death Of American Democracy 
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Kingfisher Rock Climbing 

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Location: 38.72273, -109.30259 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 14,266
Administrators: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide), Emily Roeben
Submitted By: Andrew Gram on Nov 30, 1999

42° | 24°

42° | 23°

42° | 22°

43° | 24°

47° | 26°

46° | 27°
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The Kingfisher from the NE. You can see one of us ...

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>


The Kingfisher is the closest of the big towers to the parking lot, and the easiest to climb. The Colorado NE Ridge is the easiest of the big Fisher Towers aid routes, but it is still not a giveaway. The Kingfisher also sports a selection of very difficult and dangerous aid routes, two of which were put up solo by Jim Beyer. Feel free to shudder as you walk underneath the Death of American Democracy on the way to the Colorado NE Ridge.

Getting There 

Walk along the Titan Trail past Ancient Art, and look for a climbers trail heading up the gully between Ancient Art and Cottontail Tower. Head up past Stolen Chimney, and scramble up some mud cliffs to the base of the Kingfisher. There are many climbers trails through here, and the easiest way is tough to find.

Climbing Season

Weather station 5.3 miles from here

5 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Kingfisher

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Kingfisher:
Colorado Northeast Ridge   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2     Aid, Grade IV   
Death Of American Democracy   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A4 X     Aid, Grade V   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Kingfisher

Featured Route For Kingfisher
Rock Climbing Photo:

Death Of American Democracy 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A4 X  UT : Moab Area : ... : Kingfisher
This route is an excellent nailing line which climbs the center of the south face of King Fisher for 5 pitches. Pitch one has some thin nailing and heading right off the ground passing a couple of bolts, and then nails a good leftward arching corner. Pitch two climbs left then up into a nice right facing corner. After the corner climb up a scary mud curtain to a bad bolt and then into a tricky wide crack to the belay. The third pitch climbs 5.10 and some nailing up to a pendulum point. Pendu...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Photos of Kingfisher Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: What would McHugh Do?  BM descending Kingfisher wi...
What would McHugh Do? BM descending Kingfisher wi...
Rock Climbing Photo: Some bomber belay :) on top of King Fisher
Some bomber belay :) on top of King Fisher
Rock Climbing Photo: the parking lot from the summit
the parking lot from the summit
Rock Climbing Photo: descending kingfisher
descending kingfisher
Rock Climbing Photo: Kingfisher descent II
Kingfisher descent II
Rock Climbing Photo: The Kingfischer in the middle with The Cobra in pr...
BETA PHOTO: The Kingfischer in the middle with The Cobra in pr...
Rock Climbing Photo: sunset, Kingfisher
sunset, Kingfisher
Rock Climbing Photo: Kingfisher. Photo by Blitzo.
Kingfisher. Photo by Blitzo.
Rock Climbing Photo: Kingfisher, and Colorado Ridge.
Kingfisher, and Colorado Ridge.
Rock Climbing Photo:

Comments on Kingfisher Add Comment
Show which comments
By Bryan Bornholdt
From: Las Vegas, NV
May 24, 2004
Gear Alert
This is a grand experience for anyone inclined to go beyond the Ancient Arts realm. Having done this route many times, it should be noted that the quality of the crux placements (third pitch) is diminishing. In fact, immediately off the third belay, the crack leading to the first fixed piece is getting very worn. It readily goes clean but hammering destroys the clean placements.

Be prepared to feel like you are sticking your neck out a little on this route. But most of all, savor being in the Fishers. It is a magical place.
By Perin Blanchard
From: Orem, UT
Dec 9, 2013
A discussion of certain bolts on the Kingfisher has been moved to a forum thread here: Kingfisher bolts

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