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 ADVANCED
The King Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Another Wack and Dangle Job T 
Chronic Fixation S 
Elusive Dream (pitch 1 only) T 
Four Guns Blazing S 
Kingdom Come S 
Prince, The T 
Working Wives S,TR 

Kingdom Come 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a A0

   
Type:  Sport, Aid, 4 pitches, 270'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a A0 [details]
FA: Patrick Purcell/Don Mellor/Dominic Eisinger
Page Views: 2,023
Submitted By: Rafiki on Jun 25, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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Dylan Randall on lead, myself on belay. An amazing...

Description 

A slightly overhanging line on one of the Adirondacks's most impressive faces. The 1st pitch is pumpy climbing on good holds. The underclinging 2nd pitch with insecure smears will test your forearms and endurance.

Location 

To the right of Chronic Fixation, starts on top of a small ledge. Climbs horizontals up and left, then back right to the anchors below the obvious diagonal black roof. Climb out the roof to another fixed anchor. Rap to the ground with 2 60m, or rap to the pitch 1 anchor, then to the ground.

If you want to continue on, there are two pitches above.

Pitch 3:
Aid out the arching roof via a nice bolt ladder, until it is possible to move right to a spacious ledge (The King's Couch). Although this pitch is short (20 feet), it is often wet. (A0)

Pitch 4: ("Clipping in Space")
Move up left to a nice horizontal relief, then back tackle the 12a boulder problem. Once you've mastered that, move up the left-facing crescent to a slabby exit over a bulge. End at a fixed anchor on a balanced block. (5.12a / 90')

Protection 

Bolted, clean falls. There's new anchors at the top of pitch 1..the anchors on the right.


Photos of Kingdom Come Slideshow Add Photo
It's been raining for a week but this climb is still dry. An amazing solace from the bad weather.
It's been raining for a week but this climb is sti...
Shot of me low on pitch 1
Shot of me low on pitch 1
This is truly one of the most beautiful pieces of rock there is
BETA PHOTO: This is truly one of the most beautiful pieces of ...

Comments on Kingdom Come Add Comment
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By Lucas79
From: Malden, MA
Sep 13, 2014

The first 2 pitches of this route, (and it's neighboring routes on each side), remain dry even if it's been raining for several days....or is currently raining. Make sure to get on pitch 2....the position is AMAZING! Climbs more like a trad route than a sport climb.