|Redgarden - Tower Two
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King Tut is on Steve Levin obscure tour. It is a worthy objective, but you should have your act together before attempting it. There is quite a bit of loose rock, but all hard moves are off solid features. It is quite intimidating from below, but decent gear can be found every ~10 feet on the crux pitch.
P1: Start up steep huecos to the starting crack on T2 off of the upper ramp. When T2 breaks left, continue up the steep, left-facing, black groove. The crux bulge is 2/3rds of the way up the 1st pitch. Solid gear can be found and it is at your feet as you pull the funky crux moves. A final awkward bulge leads to a belay ledge on the right. Bring a long sling for the belay horn.
P2a: The original 2nd pitch heads straight up from the belay on steep rock. This pitch finishes on runout 5.5 slabs to the T2 belay (5.8R).
P2b: An alternate P2 cuts left on a crack system with good exposure and gear to the T2 crack system (5.8+).
King Tut starts left of the Naked Edge on the upper ramp. It shares the start of the classic T2 finger crack pitch.
Double rack of cams to #2, singles up to #4 Friend with lots of slings.
Extra small and medium cams could be placed.
|By Guy H.|
From: Fort Collins CO
May 9, 2011
Note: The crux moves will mostly feel like 5.10, which shouldn't be a big surprise, since it is a 5.9+ from the '70s.
|By Drew Spaulding|
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 1, 2014
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a PG13
This corner needs a good cleaning of "loose shit" that just doesn't need to be there. 20 mins of hammer tapping on loose plates and layered stacks and this could be a 4-star pitch....