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Mark Miner approaching the wild crux moves of King...
King Tut is on Steve Levin obscure tour. It is a worthy objective, but you should have your act together before attempting it. There is quite a bit of loose rock, but all hard moves are off solid features. It is quite intimidating from below, but decent gear can be found every ~10 feet on the crux pitch.
P1: Start up steep huecos to the starting crack on T2
off of the upper ramp. When T2
breaks left, continue up the steep, left-facing, black groove. The crux bulge is 2/3rds of the way up the 1st pitch. Solid gear can be found and it is at your feet as you pull the funky crux moves. A final awkward bulge leads to a belay ledge on the right. Bring a long sling for the belay horn.
P2a: The original 2nd pitch heads straight up from the belay on steep rock. This pitch finishes on runout 5.5 slabs to the T2 belay (5.8R).
P2b: An alternate P2 cuts left on a crack system with good exposure and gear to the T2
crack system (5.8+).
King Tut starts left of the Naked Edge
on the upper ramp. It shares the start of the classic T2
finger crack pitch.
Double rack of cams to #2, singles up to #4 Friend with lots of slings.
Extra small and medium cams could be placed.
David Reinert coming up under the first overhang o...
David Reinert up to the second bulging crux of P1 ...
David Reinert comes up following on the crux of th...
By Guy H.
From: Fort Collins CO
May 9, 2011
Note: The crux moves will mostly feel like 5.10, which shouldn't be a big surprise, since it is a 5.9+ from the '70s.
By Drew Spaulding
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 1, 2014
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
This corner needs a good cleaning of "loose shit" that just doesn't need to be there. 20 mins of hammer tapping on loose plates and layered stacks and this could be a 4-star pitch....