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Dale Remsberg on the first attempt at an FA on Kin...
All three of the routes on this south-facing buttress are classic. Cat Dancing is typical thin, flared Lumpy and requires skill in placing solid RPs and provides a good calf pump. Ramses has two challenging cruxes at roofs, with a runout (and slightly loose) 5.9 section to reach the wildness. King Tut pulls three roofs up the middle of the cliff and feels more like a sport climb with big reaches and powerful moves on solid gear. All three of these routes provide a range of climbing styles and represent the diversity of climbing that Lumpy Ridge contains.
This route sits between the classic pitches of Ramses (10c/d) and The Man Who Loved Cat Dancing (11a) on the Isis Buttress which splits the corridors of the Renaissance and Living Dead Walls.
This new route starts as for Cat Dancing but pulls the first roof right of Cat and past the one bolt on the new line. Go straight up through the next overlap (small but solid gear available) to a crux finish below the final roof. Protection for the crux consists of a solid #3 Camalot and a solid #1 TCU before reachy moves below the final roof. Doubles of #1 and #2 TCUs are helpful. There is a new two-bolt anchor directly at the top of this pitch which also works as an anchor for the two routes on either side.
A 30 meter rappel down and west brings you to a ledge with a large tree from which you can traverse north off of the cliff.
The route and the Isis buttress. Chuck is at the f...
Making the hard moves to the second ceiling (hard ...
Trying to climb the headwall directly. This would ...
Making for what was for us the crux moves. There i...
Almost done. A big jug is one move further.
|By Anonymous Coward|
Jun 24, 2004
Justin, you must have the longest arms in the world as to reach the bolt from Ramses you have to climb around a dihedral and out onto a thin slab at least 8 ft. away and no easy stretch. Plus, the climbing on Ramses is pretty easy there and the gear good. Got issues?
|By justin dubois|
From: Estes Park
Sep 3, 2004
Just wanted to point out that in the photo below, the climber's right hand has full (and pressumably) firm grasp of the dihedral on Ramses. This however is not the usual beta for this route, as the climber pictured has a +34" ape index.
|By Ivan Rezucha|
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 19, 2004
I think Eli is getting unwarranted grief for this route because of other incidents discussed on this site (that bolted boulder and the ASCA hangers). We toproped King Tut after doing Ramses and thought it was very good. It's a little tight between Cat Dancing and Ramses, but it's a separate line with good and (from what I can tell on TR) exciting climbing with hard climbing above the gear. As for the bolt, yes it can be clipped from Ramses if you step left ouf of the shallow corner for a rest, but it would add even more rope drag, and why bother, since there is good gear in the corner. I had no inclination to clip the bolt, and did not feel it detracted at all from Ramses.
In the first photo below the climber is shown climbing the right edge of the roof, with his hand on the edge of the Ramses dihedral. One person in our party climbed it that way, but the other two climbed the center of the roof directly below the bolt. That way you mostly avoid Ramses, although you will likely use one of the rest footholds near the dihedral.
We approached that first roof via the obvious cracks that lead to its left edge, but we later TR'd the shallow left facing dihedral further right. It's maybe hard 10 a ways above good gear that way to reach the roof, but it's a better line.
|By Ivan Rezucha|
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 19, 2004
You can rap straight down the face with a 70m rope. A 60m won't reach, but it will reach various ledges, that may be possible to scramble down from. Perhaps better to rap west as Eli suggests.
What's up with the anchor not being equalized? Two bolts vertically oriented, but the links on the top bolt don't reach the ring on the bottom bolt. All the weight is thus on the top bolt. Needs one more link? Or is there some rationale for doing it this way?
Jun 11, 2005
Calling this an independent line is a joke. Using the rationale explained above, I could claim any number of independent lines just because I chose not to use obvious features on the cliff. Just think how many new FAs I could get on the Left Book! I could squeeze a line between White Whale and Hiatus (might need some bolts, got any ASCA hangers left...?), there's definitely a line between White Whale and The Dog, and, man, what an exciting traverse pitch it would be if you just called the walk-off ledge off-route. Imagine the possibilities...
This "route" is two to four feet left of Ramses for its entire length and four to six feet right of The Man Who Loved Cat Dancing. Is this what it's come to at Lumpy? If this kind of ridiculous squeeze job is what it takes to establish a first ascent, does anyone think it's worth it? To quote Scott Kimball, who saw the writing on the wall way back in 1984 (not '86, sorry Scott!), the rocks do not deserve this fate.
Anyone who did not move out left of the corner on Ramses to gain the rest stance would be making a major route-finding error, and Eli's bolt is easily within an arm's reach out on the face, and in regard to another comment posted above, if you put a 24" runner on that bolt when climbing Ramses, the rope would run totally straight. The only reason I didn't clip it is that I trusted the bomber #10 or 11 stopper right next to it in the crack more than Eli's bolt... That's my two (or three) cent's worth....